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Thursday, 3 March 2011

Springlike conditions on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

It is now officially spring, but I think most of us were hoping for it to not affect the snow and ice so high up on the mountains.  Freezing levels have been above the summits, only just though, for the past few days, and look to stay high for the weekend.  However, it certainly hasn't lessened activity on the classic ice lines of Hadrian's Wall, Point 5 Gully and Tower Scoop, all of which saw multiple ascents today.

Matt on the lower reaches of Tower Ridge




I was working for Abacus Mountaineering, and was guiding Matt on Tower Ridge today.  Matt had tried the longest of the Ben Nevis ridges once before, but was unfortunately thwarted at about the Little Tower.  Fortunately today was different.  The weather today was very good, with little wind and plenty of gaps in the cloud, and the overall feel to the mountain was very spring like, with plenty of black buttresses showing through and snow and ice dripping down the rocks.  We made good progress along the ridge, opting to put our crampons on after the initial rock step out of Douglas Gap, and made it to Tower Gap in good time.  A team beneath the gap was a pitch away from the crux of 'Glover's Chimney III,4'.  We did hear the sound of large quantities of snow moving, and thought that cornice collapse around No. 5 Gully may have been the most likely cause.

The Great Tower, looming in the clouds

The 'WOW' moment for Matt. 
Looking across to the final section and summit plateau

The final snow ridge, beyond Tower Gap.
The ridge was understandably busy, but there was never the need to queue, and overall, it was a great day to be out.  A team topped out on the ridge beyond Tower Gap, having climbed what seemed to be 'Upper Tower Cascade Right III'.  Mike was out with clients on Hadrian's Wall, along with Scott and Spike, and reported good but ever so slightly deteriorating ice.  Climbing options are becoming more and more limited as the thaw continues, so expect to queue this weekend, or go cragging!  Temperatures are forecasted to cool down next week, which will help to no end.

1 comment:

  1. Thanks so much Ken for an absolutley mega day out on Tower ridge, learnt a lot. Climbing up on to the Great tower and watching the sun break through the clouds was just awesome! Hope to climb with you again sometime mate.
    Cheers

    Matt

    ReplyDelete