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Something different: Drytooling at Newtyle Quarry

With a favourable forecast over east, Scott and I ventured to Newtyle Quarry, one of Scotland's few drytooling venues (the other that I know of is beneath Ballachulish Bridge in Glencoe, so please do let me know if you know of any others!). 

Having not really done much drytooling before, we started on the easiest lines of the quarry, Bonzai and Grooviliscious, both coming in at D4 (roughly equivalent of Scottish VI), and I have to admit that neither of them were that straight forwards, both sporting a few blind moves and a number of thin hooks, nevermind having not really spent much time pulling on ice axes or standing on tiny edges with crampons for some time!

Me on Bonzai

Scott on Grooviliscious

Scott on Roofiliscious

Having both led these, we had a go at Roofiliscious D5+, which packed a punch right from the floor.  In the end, we decided it would be more conducive to top rope this line, which after working out a couple of the lower moves, was technically not too difficult.  Just quite physical!

It was great to get the forearms working hard again, and re-adjusting to balancing with points on tiny edges, and hopefully good preparation for another good winter!

Here are a few tips for visiting Newtyle Quarry:
-Make sure that your axes are sharp, and ideally modified for mixed climbing (click here for more info).  You'll reap the benefits of a sharp hook on the tips of your tools!
-Both belayer and climber should wear a helmet.  Some of the rock is very loose, a fair sized block came down after we had pulled the ropes through.
-Eye/face protection probably isn't a bad idea should an axe placement pop.
-Take a clip-stick if you have one.  We clipped the second bolts on each of the routes, just to limit ground fall potential.

Enjoy!

Another great day in Glencoe

One of the great things about living in Fort William is that less than half an hour away, the magnificent valley of Glencoe can be reached, offering countless opportunities for mountaineering adventures in a very different setting to those of the immediate mountains of Fort William.

Today, I was out with Norm, from Boston, US, who was on an extended tour of the UK.  He had already spent days out on Bruach Na Frithe on Skye, and The Five Sisters in Glen Sheil, and wanted to round off his time in the Scottish Highlands with a walk up to the highest point in Glencoe, Bidean nam Bian at 1150m.  The circuit to reach this summit is detailed in Cameron McNeish's 'Scotland 100 Best Walks' and it would be hard to disagree with it's inclusion.

Despite a good forecast, the skies above were grey and threatening as we headed up the path towards Stob Coire Nan Lochan, which despite it's stature, does not quite make it to Munro status due to the lack in high difference between it and Bidean nam Bian.  On gaining the coire, we veered south east to gain the broad ridge of Gearr Aonach which leds onto the atmospheric East Ridge of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  Once at the summit, a short descent and ascent, overlooking the crags of Stob Coire Nan Beith and Church Door Buttress brought us to the summit of Glencoe's highest peak, Bidean Nam Bian.  Someone must have been looking down on us, as by now, the clouds had lifted giving fantastic views out to Ardgour, The Mamores, Glen Etive and Rannoch Moor.  A steep descent from the summit brought us down into the Lost Valley, one of the hidden gems of Glencoe, before picking our way through the native woodland, which guards the entrance to the Lost Valley, and down to the Meeting of Three Waters and finally back to the van.

On the South East Ridge of Stobe Coire Nan Lochan, with Stob Coire Sgreamach behind

On the summit of Bidean nam Bian, with Loch Etive in the background

A fantastic day out with some stunning views and good weather, and one which Norm said he would remember for a long time! 

Coached Scrambling on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Returning clients are great!  Of course I would say that, as it brings back business, but more to the point, it allows both a solid relationship to develop and great opportunities for progression and that's just what the theme of today was all about.  Wes, Kev, both of whom I had guided up Tower Ridge back in July, came back for more mountaineering, and this time had brought Chris along too.  Tower Ridge is unquestionably one of the finest and challenging scrambles in the UK and to step it up from there (without visiting Skye) would enter the realms of rock climbing (North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis spring to mind), for which better weather than what was forecasted would be required.  So, in order to challenge the three, and in particular Wes, as he had a bit more experience under his belt, I suggested that a day of coached scrambling, with Wes on the sharp end, leading Kev and Chris, on the Glencoe classic, Curved Ridge would make the most of their day.

We set off from the car, with steady drizzle and low cloud, as I explained the various landmarks and directions, which make finding Curved Ridge in the low cloud far easier and picked our way to the base of the ridge.  Before setting off, we talked through the ideal scrambling rack and the principles of scrambling with a rope, i.e. being safe enough rather than too safe in order to keep things moving, and the three components of scrambling:

1) flow -keeping things moving, being dynamic with decision making and planning ahead
2) control -using the rope efficiently and effectively and ensuring that both seconds are always protected
3) command -directing both seconds, at times independently

Chris and Kev enjoying the scrambling, with Rannoch Wall behind

Wes took all of this on-board and with some en-route coaching, brought Kev and Chris up safely and quickly to reach the top of Easy Gully and the base of Crowberry Tower for lunch.  Wes has also started his quest to complete all 283 Munros within 10 years, so rather than hang about, we made our way up the final broken ground to the summit of Stob Dearg, and quickly fired our way along the broad ridge of Buachaille Etive Mòr to the second Munro, Sgor na Bròige.  Munro no. 6 in the bag! The weather had improved vastly throughout the day, allowing fantastic views down into Glen Etive and across to Buachaille Etive Beag.

At the top of Curved Ridge, with glimpses towards Rannoch Moor behind

Spectacular views up Glen Etive

Get in touch for Winter Courses 2011-12

As another summer passes by, it's time to look forward to this coming winter (not forgetting some autumnal rock climbing!), and with temperatures today on the summit of Ben Nevis just above freezing, it won't be long until the first snows arrive.  The past two winters have been fantastic, with some great early season conditions, so fingers crossed for a third.

Please do get in touch at applegateken@gmail.com or 07799 863068 if you are interested in developing your experience in the winter mountains this coming season.  I am based in Fort William throughout the year.
 
Prices per day start from: £160 for 1 person, £180 for 2 people, £200 for 3 people.

Three weeks in the Ecrins Massif, French Alps

Following a day's guiding Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis with Edita and Boris, from Croatia, Scott and I made the long journey from Fort William to Ailefroide, on east side of the Ecrins National Park.  The village of Ailefroide sits at 1515m, and is surrounded on all sides by towering granite mountains, offering everything from roadside bouldering and single-pitch sports climbing right the way through to long (500m+) bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs and mixed alpine climbing.  Coupled with some of the best weather in France and an enormous, yet tranquil campsite with climbing a mere ten minutes walk away, it seemed like the ideal destination.  And it was.

Scott enjoying the granite slabs of Ailefroide

Having driven for 24 hours almost non-stop, we chose to ease ourselves in gently, and headed up to the local crag of Sector Engilberge (15 mins walk from campsite!) and climbed 'Ma, que! Seulment du V!', which was a perfect introductory climb to the area and sported 5 well bolted pitches of fantastic granite slabs.  The following day, we headed up to Sector Orage D'Etoile and climbed the even better 'Orage D'Etoile', this time sporting 10 well bolted pitches up equally fantastic slabs, which just kept on coming.  The route is quite sustained at the grade, which given the quality of climbing, was no bad thing!

Dawn on the Pelvoux Traverse

After a quick bite to eat, rehydration and a quick re-pack of the bags, we headed up to the Pelvoux Hut at 2700m.  The following morning, having managed about 4 hours of broken sleep, we joined other early risers to head up the 'Coolidge Couloir', graded PD+ (see here for more info on alpine grading) and reached the summit of Mount Puiseux at 3943m, part of Le Pelvoux, which dominates the views to the NE from Ailefroide.  We continued the classic Pelvoux Traverse, and descended via the impressive Violettes Glacier, before tackling a number of rocky ridges and abseils, all as part of a huge 6 hour, 2500m descent back down into Ailefroide.  A long, but highly recommended day!

The summit of Mount Puiseux 3943m

The start of the descent via the Violettes Glacier

Cravasses on the Voilettes Glacier

Following a day of single-pitch sports climbing (I found the routes much harder than the equivalent grade on steep limestone!), we walked in to the popular Glacier Blanc Hut, from where we tackled the Pic Glacier Blanc at 3525m via a seemingly less travelled route called 'Le Communard' graded D (photo topo here).  This excellent route takes quite a direct line up the south face of the 'Pic du Glacier Blanc', and is reasonably well bolted, particularly on the trickier pitches.

Pre-dawn, looking out over the Barres des Ecrins

Pic du Glacier Blanc

Scott on Le Communard, Pic du Glacier Blanc

Bivi beneath the north face of La Meije

After one last climb up Little Palavar, we left Ailefroide, and planned to head round to La Grave, to try 'Gravelotte Couloir' on the north face of La Meije.  This involved bivi-ing on top Les Enfetchores, at one of the most spectacular spots that I've spent a night, directly underneath the looming north face of La Meije. However, after another early start, we began crossing the heavily cravassed glacier, and soon realised that the snow was far too soft and that the snow bridges, which would allow safer passage through the almost blind maze of cravasses when frozen, were not so secure due to the temperatures not falling as much as anticipated through the night.  We called it a day (at 5am!), and whilst we were unsuccessful on climbing La Meije this time, it was a great experience non-the-less and certainly a lesson!







The village of La Berade was our next destination, and is almost a mirror image of Ailefroide, minus the crowds and shops.  A quick climb on the local crag of Tete de La Maye set us up well for our final trip into the higher mountains, up to the Soreiller Hut, which lies at the foot of the striking Aiguille Dibona. We climbed 'Voie Madier' TD, which is now largely bolted, which was without a doubt, my favourite route of the trip.  The route follows an obvious diagonal fault up to the Boell Ledge, from where we took a slight diversion up the grooves of Visite Obligatoire to reach the summit.

The striking Aiguille Dibona

The Aiguille Dibona from the Soreiller Hut

On Voie Madier, Aiguille Dibona

One last climb of the trip saw us abseiling 6 rope lengths down the Cascade de Villard, close to Bourg d'Oisans to gain the base of 'Issue de Secours'.  The three routes of this well hidden crag lie either side of a magnificent waterfall, which provided a very atmospheric backdrop to our final adventure in the Ecrins.  Whilst the climbing probably only merits two stars, the situation definitely deserves three!

A visit to the Ecrins National Park is highly recommended, and I will be heading back there in the future!

Mountaineering on Ben Nevis: Tower Ridge & Ledge Route

Today I was out with Wes and Kevin, who were keen to tackle one of the finest mountaineering routes in the UK, Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.  Both had a fair bit of hillwalking and scrambling experience under their belts, but the majority of scrambling they had both done had tended to be in the Lake District and North Wales, so as the clouds swirled around the coires as we made our way up towards the CIC Hut, they were clearly in awe at the scale of the north face of Ben Nevis, and in particular that of Tower Ridge.

We made good progress up the ridge, and were fortunate for the clouds to lift and provide some impressive views out towards Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Beag and beyond.  I've said it many times before, but these spectacular views are very hard to get bored of!  We didn't hang around, and soon found ourselves at 'The Gap'.  On Saturday, a substantial block came away from Tower Gap (details here), which has led to the down climb into the gap being slightly trickier than before, and more importantly has loosened up a few other surrounding blocks in the gap, and now requires greater care than before.  We did just that, and soon found ourselves emerging into the sunshine on the summit plateau.

Beyond the Gap

The gravity defying blocks on Ledge Route

As if scrambling 900m up was not enough, Wes and Kevin were keen to descend via Ledge Route, and in no time at all, we were back down at the CIC Hut.  All in all, it was another fantastic day to be out in the mountains.

Ben Nevis this afternoon