Great ice on Comb Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

The initial icefall

Given that the forecast for today was light rain, I thought it would be worth heading up high, to find some late season ice on Ben Nevis. My better half, Han, and I have not really had much opportunity to climb together this winter, as she has been very focused on working towards her Winter ML Assessment, which I'm pleased to say she sailed through, so we thought it would be great to swing leads, and decided to seek out 'Comb Gully Buttress IV,4', just to the left of 'Comb Gully IV,4'. Seeking the buttress was easier said than done, as we were immersed in a thick pea souper upon gaining Coire Na Ciste. I have looked across at Comb Gully Buttress a couple of times in the past and been drawn to the route by an impressive icefall at the base, which overlooks the entrance to 'No.2 Gully'. I wasn't to be disappointed today, the icefall whilst only 6m or so high, was steep and sustained, and good fun! Grade IV,4, I think not!

Han then took over the lead, across the intermediate snow field, and then up the final pitch, which proved to be another excellent pitch of ice, with a couple of steep steps, which Han did very well to lead. Definitely quite stiff for IV,4, more like IV,5. Looking through the various guidebooks that exist, the true line of Comb Gully Buttress is slightly ambiguous, but whatever we did climb, it was a quality line, with some great ice, and is highly recommended!

Han setting off on Pitch 3

The bum slide down the Red Burn is the best it has been all season, and gives you 2 minutes of continuous slide, a relaxing way to descend the mountain! That may well have been my last day of personal climbing this winter, but only time will tell...

Due to the thick cloud that shrouded the mountain today, it was very hard to see anything, but 'Comb Gully' is still in great conditions, and 'The Comb - Left Flank' looked to be complete. The weekend still looks good for winter climbing.

Potentially a new route: Mint Sauce E1 5c*, Glen Nevis

Having enjoyed yesterdays session on Sheep Fank Wall in Glen Nevis, Alex and I decided to head back and climb some of the other routes up there.  The rock is clean and dries quickly, and although the routes are short, they're quite technical, and on the whole, quite well protected.  It's a great micro crag! Alex warmed up by climbing 'Haul HVS 5a', which sports a nicely exposed crux, before gaining easier ground to the tree belay.  He then mentioned that there could be a potential new route, which I was very keen to try...

Just beyond the crux of Mint Sauce

Beneath the first roof of the crag, which is bound by the route 'Fence Edge HS' to it's left, and 'Sheep Fank Direct S' to it's right, is a small hanging slab, which looked quite blank, and not recorded in any of the guidebooks for the area.  Protection seemed to be reasonable from the ground, so I thought that there would be nothing to loose by having a go.  Having placed a Wild Country Zero Friend and a small Black Diamond micro-stopper, I made a few false starts before finally committing to the thin and quite strenuous slab, with feet on the tiniest features and hands undercutting varying quality of holds on the roof itself.  The join between the roof and slab didn't yield a thing for hands!  It was only a couple of moves across the slab, but felt quite exposed, as a slip would certainly not be pleasant!  Once I had gained the arete to the left, I muttered to Alex that I wasn't quite out the woods yet, before placing a solid cam, and establishing myself on the easier line of 'Fence Edge'.



I'm surprised that the slab had not been recorded, as it was a good route, with quite a technical crux, and it fits in well with the other routes on offer on the wall.  I've emailed the Scottish Mountaineering Club, and put the route forward...

POLLDUBH, Sheep Fank Wall:

Mint Sauce   30m   E1 5c *. Ken Applegate, Alex Wheeldon. 29 March 2011.

Start beneath the corner 3m right of the lowest point of the crag.  Climb up the corner, to the roof then make a delicate traverse left, across the hanging slab to gain the arete of Fence Edge and easier ground above.

Alex pulling through the crux on Tickattack

We finished the afternoon off with 'Tickattack E1 5b', which boasts an exposed and entertaining move as it's crux, to gain easier ground above.  Well protected, and good fun!

It's looking wet tomorrow, so I'm going to head up and see what winter's left on Ben Nevis...

Is that it for winter? Rock climbing in Glen Nevis

I'm not writing winter off just yet, and with freezing levels below the summit of Ben Nevis tomorrow, it does look like the ice may hold out a little longer, but with a low pressure system tracking it's way across the British Isle on Tuesday night, I thought that I would make the most of the current dry and mild conditions closer to sea level, or more specifically, in Glen Nevis.

Alex leading Tonis on Sheep Flank Wall

Rain was threatening as Alex and I drove into Glen Nevis, but we thought that we would just press on, and fortunately, the rain didn't really amount to anything.  First up, was a route that I had tried a few years ago, the steep fault of 'Kraut E1 5b' on After Crag.  I had had to rest on the rope last time I had tried the route, so with a bit more of a tactical approach this time, i.e. shake-out before the crux, I climbed the route without too much of a problem.  It was steep, and an enjoyable awakening to this season of rock climbing.  We then wandered over to Sheep Fank Wall, which having had a number of trees felled around it's base, now sported clean, dry rock, and some enjoyable shorter routes.  I then led 'Tonis HVS 5a' and 'Brown Slab E1 5b', the latter of which can be found the the late Ed Grindley's 'Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis', both of which were quite technical and a little bold at their respective cruxes.

So, a good start to this season's rock climbing, finger's crossed that the rain holds off tomorrow.  I was out working in on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe yesterday, and made an ascent of Broad Gully, which was still complete along with Forked Gully and North Gully, and there is still a reasonable amount of snow up in the coire, and certainly the coires of Bidian Nan Bian are still firmly gripping on to their winter coats.  Progress up there will be quite tough though, as there are are no footsteps to follow!  Still plenty of ice to climb on Ben Nevis, including quite a bit of ice around No. 2 Gully Buttress area (The White Line, Expert's Choice etc.) and check Scott's Blog for details on the conditions in Observatory Gully.

Just hanging on in there: No. 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Day four out with the three from Sheffield.  With a good forecast, and not many other options, heading up high on Ben Nevis seemed to be the sensible choice, and 'No. 3 Gully Buttress III' high in Coire Na Ciste the most appropriate route.  The great thing about the route is that every pitch is different, and the line makes it's way through some very impressive scenery.  There is also scope for much variation, allowing additional difficulties to be included, depending on conditions.

Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall

As we entered a deserted Coire Na Ciste, we had great views over towards Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall, and it looks as though the first couple of pitches of 'The White Line III' are still holding on in there, and could be used to gain 'Raeburn's Easy Route II'.  'The Gutter III,4' and 'Beam Me Up Scotty III' also look just about complete, so a combination of the lower pitches of 'Glover's Chimney III,4' and then moving onto 'The Gutter' may also provide a good day out.  The lower pitches of our route, No. 3 Gully Buttress, could also be clearly seen, and looked to be in good conditions, and having climbed the route earlier this season, during another thaw, I was confident that there would be enough snow and ice to complete the route.  I chose to head directly up the first pitch, taking in a nice section of steeper (and very hard) ice, which the others all enjoyed, before moving across the big traverse, underneath 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5', which is complete, but dripping wet, and no doubt quite unstable.  Above the traverse, I opted for a rocky pitch, which heads straight up to the plateau.  There is enough ice on this pitch, but again, its very hard in places, shatters quite easily, and required care to climb.

The big traverse on No. 3 Gully Buttress

Topping out on a cloud free Ben Nevis

We were treated to blue skies and sunshine (a surprisingly reoccurring theme this winter!) on topping out, and enjoyed the quickest way off the mountain, the Red Burn bum slide, which has developed a few gaping holes. Another great day on Ben Nevis! We only saw two other teams climbing, both on 'Green Gully IV,4'. which is holding on well, and Mike Pescod was out on 'Comb Gully IV,3' and reported good ice.  Forecast is for cooler temperatures, so the ice that's still there should last a bit longer...  It's not over yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

On the sharp end: The Runnel, Cairngorms

As Ben was moaning about blisters (they are pretty bad really, and he didn't moan too much), and with a better forecast for the east, I decided that a trip to The Cairngorms would be more beneficial today.  The walk into Coire an t'Sneachda was quite easy going, and despite the thaw, the snow underfoot wasn't giving way too easily.  We were the second team into the coire, with Fi Chappell from Talisman Mountaineering and Martin Moran with their clients in hot pursuit.  Our plan was to climb 'The Runnel II', which is normally a very popular route, but fortunately, the others had different objectives, enabling us to climb the route at our pace, without sending snow and ice down onto teams below. 

John, leading his first winter climb

 

On the final icy pitch

Given the good protection available on the route, along with the soft snow with steps already in place, John was able to jump onto the sharp end, with me soloing alongside, offering advice and tips as he steadily and comfortably moved up his first winter lead.  Despite the good cracks which litter the side walls of the climb, quite a few blocks were loose, and we were able to assess and avoid these.  John made good progress, and led the first three pitches smoothly, and was able to organise Phil and Ben at each belay efficiently.  The final pitch, a narrow, icey chimney was obviously the crux of the route, so in order to ensure his safety, I soloed up, placing key gear and runners for John to clip into as he tackled his first bit of steeper and harder ice.  The cracks easily consumed most the rack, allowing for a well protected pitch, which John climbed with no problem at all, he then cruised the upper snow slope which provided good axe and foot placements.  Well done on your first winter lead!  We were treated to some fantastic views over to Ben Macdui and Ben Mheadhoin in the afternoon, and descended alongside a busy Coire Cas.

Clear views out to Ben Mheadhoin

Coire an t'Sneachda

It was a quiet day in the coire, with other teams on 'Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV,4', which looked great, 'Crotched Gully I/II', and Martin mentioned heading over to climb 'Afterthought Arete III'.

It turned out alright: Dorsal Arete, Glencoe

South Buttress of Stob Coire Nan Lochan
 

Another day out with Phil, Ben and John.  As we pulled up in Glencoe this morning, there was low cloud and it was drizzling, without any signs of letting up.  Fortunately for us, the forecast of a high pressure moving in as the day progress materialised, and from about 11am onwards, we were treated to blue skies and sunshine, along with some great views out towards the Aonach Eagach and beyond.

This was my first time climbing 'Dorsal Arete II', on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe, and given the traffic that the route had received yesterday, I was fearing the worst, given the current winter conditions, but we lucked out, and were the first of only two teams today.  The route is quite straight forward, starting on snow slopes just to the right of Broad Gully, and with good conditions on the route for the most part, we made good progress up the easier section of the route, before heading up a slightly bare chimney, and gaining the exciting finale, the exposed rocky fin, which today didn't require an axe, but did require a bit of care due to the loose blocks.  I'm sure that the route must change each season due to rockfall, but today we didn't significantly add to the erosion of the route, and topped out on the snow free west shoulder of Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Another great day out!

Jenga blocks on Dorsal Arete, be careful what you pull on!

It was very quiet in Stob Coire Nan Lochan today, and the blackness of the buttresses will be the reason why.  Boomerang Gully and Broad Gully (descended by a team today) are complete and Forked Gully, North Gully and NC Gully still look complete, although SC Gully is missing large sections.  The top-outs of some of these gullies will be quite precarious given the steep and soggy cornices still present, and until temperatures drop, which will happen to an extent through the night, they are probably worth avoiding.

Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Faulty Plumbing on Fawlty Towers, Ben Nevis

A huge difference from Saturday!

With soaring temperatures, I thought that the ice on Fawlty Towers may just about be hanging on in there.  It was, just.  Today, I was out with my brother, Phil, and a couple of his friends from Sheffield, John and Ben.  Ben and my brother had kindly helped me out when getting ready for my Mountain Instructor Award Assessment back in October, and again, with my Mountain Instructor Certificate Assessment in the pipeline, the three of them were willing 'guinea pigs' once again.  I should point out that they're all very enthusiastic and keen to learn the ropes of winter climbing, so a win-win situation for all.

Carn Dearg to Castle Ridge

Fawlty Towers is normally a great grade III snow/ice climb, finishing low down on Tower Ridge, however today, it was looking a little bit lean, and with water dripping down all the buttresses of Ben Nevis that I could see (the cloud was low, so I couldn't see up into Coire Na Ciste or Observatory Gully), it was going to be a damp experience for all.  The first pitch usually involves a good snow-ice groove, however today, we had to take a line slightly to the right which involved a bit of rock climbing in order to gain the thinning ice above, which was good fun, and not without interest. The turf was still frozen in places, and what ice there was, was not bad at all, but care was needed not to dislodge the now unfrozen blocks.   The three climbed well and quickly, helped by their previous rock climbing experience, and it wasn't long until we gained the crest of Tower Ridge.  It did sound as though there was a team on Tower Ridge, but given the low cloud, it was impossible to be sure.  We descended Tower Ridge and the West Gully of Douglas Boulder, which all added to the adventure of the day. 

Looking up Fawlty Towers, taken by Phil Applegate

 
Conditions on the mountain are far from ideal, with a huge thaw currently in progress, and due to continue throughout the next few days.  With a high pressure system set to dominate as of tomorrow, our saving grace might just be the cooler night time temperatures.  Vanishing Gully, Italian Climb and the routes on the Douglas Boulder are all no longer climbable, reports from others suggested that the ice lines on Creag Coire Na Ciste are no longer viable either, but a team did climb No. 3 Gully Buttress.  I'd imagine that Green Gully and the ice lines high on the mountain are hanging on in there, but for how much longer I wouldn't like to say.

Déjà vu: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

It felt like only yesterday that I was last up on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, and therefore the UK.  In fact it was three whole days ago!  Today, I was working for Abacus Mountaineering, and out with Parminder who had at the last minute, having been cancelled on by his regular climbing partner, driven the 500 miles from Sheffield in order to get some ice climbed, and to hopefully learn a thing or two along the way.

As we walked up to the CIC Hut, it was apparent that there were already a few teams already established on Orion Direct, and with numerous teams gearing up at the foot of Observatory Gully, things were not looking great for getting onto our number one choice of route.  Fortunately, as we approached the teams, they all shot off up towards the East Gully of Tower Ridge, and with a couple of other teams disappearing up towards Hadrian's Wall, which looks fantastic, and Observatory Ridge, a gap opened up at the base of Orion Direct.  Parminder had already led Point 5 and Zero Gully, and coupled with being a keen rock climber, it was clear that he was going to make short work of the climbing on Orion Direct.  The thing that did take time was the waiting as teams progressed at very varying rates.  We topped out at 6:30pm, with still a number of teams still climbing various routes.  A long, but again, excellent day, and I certainly don't think Parminder minded the slightly later than planned finish.  I remember him mentioning 'good value for money' on the descent!

Conditions on the route were overall quite good, not too dissimilar to how they were on Wednesday, however, the crux pitch is starting to show signs of wear from the countless ice axe placements, and unless some melt/freeze takes place, the crucial patches of ice just beyond the traverse on the crux pitch will become quite insecure in the not too distant future.  One team started Observatory Ridge as we walked around the toe of the ridge, and seemed to be finding conditions on the ridge slow going, there seemed to still be a lot of unconsolidated snow on the crest.  Another team headed up Epsilon Chimney IV,4, from The Basin, which again looked excellent, and a good alternative to Orion Direct.  Astral Highway will still be in condition, as for the time being will the other ice lines high on the mountain; Point 5 Gully, Smiths Route, Indicator Wall, Observatory Buttress etc. but with warmer temperatures this week, things lower down will be deteriorating rapidly and care is required, particularly in the gullies as cornices start to collapse.

A Winter Mountain Leader in the making: Glen Feshie, Cairngorms

Views out to Glen Feshie and the Monaliadth Mountains

Over the course of this winter, my better half, Han, and I have had quite different agendas, which has lead to us spending very little time on the hill together. She's moments away from embarking on her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, whereas I've been out gaining experience in order to work towards my Mountain Instructor Certificate assessment, which has been predominantly winter mountaineering and climbing. We were due to go snow holing a couple of weeks ago, but a cold on Han's part saw an end to that idea, so finally we headed out to the hills east of Glen Feshie in the Cairngorms. An area popular for Winter Mountain Leader Assessments, due to it's potential for snow holing sites and for it's indistinct land features, ideal for testing navigation.

Sastrugi on Carn Ban Mor

 Snow was down to the valley base, enabling ski tourers to head off straight from the car park, whereas we were spending the day on foot. Glen Feshie is an amazing glen, and despite good access from Aviemore and Kingussie, on leaving the road suddenly a real sense of wilderness and remoteness is felt. The rolling nature of the hills also make the area a ski tourers' playground.

Drooping cornices on Carn Ban Mor

We headed up onto Carn Ban Mor, and quickly gained some incredible vistas up Glen Feshie and over towards the Monaliadth Mountains. From the summit, the western corries of Braeriach could be seen, with a sea of undulating snow lying inbetween. A navigator's dream or nightmare! After practising various navigational techniques such as pacing and staying on a bearing in white out conditions, we found one of the snow hole sites, one of the snow holes here was palatial. After lunching in one, we set off to find some more obscure navigational points, and in doing so, the clouds closed in, enabling Han to practise in true poor visibility. We finished back on Carn Ban Mor, and as we descended back into Glen Feshie, were greeted by moody sunshine and ominous looking clouds out to the west.


Han's well on track for her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, having put a lot of time and effort into getting ready, and I wish her all the best! Go for it!

Simply Stunning: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis this morning.

Back up Ben Nevis again today, and what a difference to yesterday!  Again working for Abacus Mountaineering, the same two pairings as yesterday, Phil with Mike and Dominic with myself all decided to head up to have a look at something long and icy.  It doesn't really get as long and icey as 'Astral Highway VI,5', which Mike and Phil headed for, and 'Orion Direct V,5', which we had in mind.  There had been a hard freeze through the night, which helped with the walk-in to the CIC Hut, and with clear blue skies, things were looking excellent!

Mike heading up the second pitch

Spindrift coming down the second pitch

On route, we followed a French team, and Richard Bentley with his client, but despite there being three teams, we rarely had to wait long.  With clear skies, amazing views, little wind and great climbing, the waiting really wasn't an issue either.  The crux, the traverse on pitch five, was a bit thin today and not particularly well protected, but the climbing at that point is never too hard, and once the traverse was over, there was ample opportunity to get an ice screw in.  We topped out to magnificent vistas in every direction, and could easily make out Skye, The Cairngorms, Schiehallion, Glencoe and Rhum.  There was a lot of spindrift pouring down Point 5 Gully when the winds picked up in the afternoon.  The descent from the Halfway Lochain to the North Face Car Park is hard going at the moment, with very deep snow in places.

The team walking over towards the summit of Ben Nevis this afternoon

All in all, a great couple of days, with two very different routes.  Other teams out on Hadrian's Wall Direct, Tower Ridge, Upper Tower Cascades, and again numerous teams heading up to Vanishing Gully.  One team backed away from Observatory Ridge, no doubt due to the amount of loose snow on it.  Unfortunately, an avalanche came down Garadh Gully and injured a French team in the vicinity.

A Schooling in Thrutching: Gutless, Ben Nevis

Trident Buttresses and Carn Dearg this morning

Following a few days of heavy snow it was going to be interesting to see what condition Ben Nevis was in, or whether we could even get up there.  Today I was working for Abacus Mountaineering, Mike was out with Phil and I was out with Dominic.  Phil and Dominic were already good friends and climbing partners, and with their aims being quite similar, we decided to head up as a four to the Douglas Boulder, with Mike and Phil planning to climb 'Jack Knife V,6' and Dominic and I to climb 'Gutless IV,5'.

Dominic just pulling over the difficulties of pitch 1

Fortunately, there is a trench all the way up to the CIC Hut, so progress, whilst slower than usual was reasonable.  On arriving at the CIC Hut, we could see numerous teams heading up for 'Vanishing Gully V,5', probably spurred by Richard Bentley's ascent of it yesterday, and one team retreating from Observatory Gully.  They went on to climb a barely in condition 'Curtain IV,4'.  As we started on the route, snow was still falling, but the higher we climbed, the better the weather became.  The crux pitch of Gutless is a wide chimney, requiring a whole host of climbing techniques, from backing and footing to body camming, and is quite sustained.  It felt harder than the given grade, and Dominic did well to thrutch his way up it! The route also deserves at least one star, if not two as the climbing on it is of good quality. We joined onto the SW Ridge just behind Mike and Phil, who had also enjoyed their route, and as we descended the Douglas Boulder, we were treated to spectacular views of Coire Na Ciste to our right and Orion Face to our left.  An enjoyable day for all today.

Stunning views of Orion Face this afternoon...

... and of Coire Na Ciste

A busy Vanishing Gully

Temperatures rose throughout the day, and the freezing level at it's highest was at about 900m, with ice peeling away from the lower buttresses.  However, a frost tonight should mean that the higher routes will be in fantastic condition, the ones not buried at any rate.  Getting to them will still be problematic, but there are a number of trenches around the mountain.  We did see a team high on Observatory Buttress at around 3:30pm, good effort on their part!

The very white peak: North Ridge of Stob Ban

The final day of working for Hughes Mountaineering saw me heading into The Mamores, with Declan, Tom and Miriam to have a last mountaineering adventure with one real criteria for the day: to get back for the Ireland/Wales Six Nations rugby fixture at 5pm!  With snow forecasted and a shift in the wind direction, it made sense to stick to ridges, and with that in mind, opted to head up the North Ridge of Stob Ban.  Stob Ban translates as the white peak, and although the term refers to it's quartzite composition, it was certainly very white with the freshly deposited snow.

A snow covered North Ridge

The ridge has great character, rising at first quite sharply out of Glen Nevis, then easing off before tackling what at first seems to be an improbable buttress.  Once up close, the true nature of the difficulties become much clearer and easier than initial impressions might suggest.  A couple of rocky steps and some meandering lead to a spectacular snowy arete, leading the way towards the various false summits and finally the shattered quartzite peak of Stob Ban.  Windslab, which had been forming on the easterly facing slopes over the past couple of days, was also forming rapidly on the westerly facing slopes due to the new wind direction.  On the summit, we bumped into a team from the Ice Factor  who suggested that the trench they had created on their ascent (also our intended descent) would prove useful, however so much snow had fallen that their foot deep trench had already filled in.

Not a great photo but it shows the
amount of snow on the descent path

We were able to forge a path back down the mountain, through at times waist deep snow, trying to stick to the line of the path as closely as possible, which was very obscure at times.  We made it down for just gone 4pm, allowing enough times to make it back for the rugby, but  I bet they wished they hadn't have bothered given the final score!  A great and very different three days, all reflecting the diversity and challenges of Scottish winter mountaineering.

Another wild day: Carn Mor Dearg

Today, again working for Hughes Mountaineering, I was out with Jackie and David and joined by a few more of their fellow Corkonians; Kieran, Declan and Tom.  The aim of the day was quite similar to yesterday, with all of the team having done a few bits and pieces of winter mountaineering in the past.  With a high avalanche risk on easterly aspects, we opted to head up the Allt a'Mhuilinn, and venture onto Carn Mor Dearg (The Big Red Peak).

The Corkonians in front of Ben Nevis

The weather was again quite wild, but today, rather than squalls, was much more constant, transporting lots of loose snow from westerly aspects to easterly aspects.  The team did well to battle the wind and stinging snow to make it to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg, before we chose to call it a day, and head back to the comfort of the glens.  I think that Carn Mor Dearg gets overlooked as a day in itself, as most people summit it as part of a longer day, taking the Carn Mor Dearg Arete round and up onto the summit of Ben Nevis, which is a shame, as it is a great day out, taking in an impressive ridgeline and some impressive scenery, not to mention grandstand views of one of the finest Scottish winter climbing venues!

On the final ridge of Carn Mor Dearg

Quite busy on the North Face of Ben Nevis, with many teams sticking to the lower western end of Tower Ridge, on Fawlty Tower, West Gully of Douglas Boulder, Gutless and Jack Knife.  Hadrian's Wall Direct was also climbed.  Winds are forecasted to be easterlies tomorrow, which will start the shift of snow onto the west facing slopes, and will cause windslab to develop on the currently scoured slopes, so a bit of care required for the weekend.

Wild Wild West: Gearr Aonach, Glencoe

Sheltered scrambling on the Zig Zags

If the winds in Glencoe had been anything close to those in Fort William during the early hours of today, I think today would have turned out quite different.  Instead, David, Jackie and I enjoyed a relatively pleasant day in Glencoe.  Today I was working for Hughes Mountaineering, along with Campbell, Andy and John.

As we pulled up in Glencoe, I don't think anyone anticipated on staying out as long as we eventually did, but soon after we had left that car, the weather cleared and even showed some blue skies!  The winds were still quite fresh, and with strong gusts forecasted, staying low was essential.  David and Jackie had quite a bit of experience both at home (Ireland) and abroad, and were keen to experience an adventurous walking day, but were fully aware that the weather could easily curtail plans.  Other members of their party were heading up to climb on Far Eastern Buttress on the East Face of Aonach Dubh, so I chose to head up the Zig Zags, onto Gearr Aonach then traverse into Coire Nan Lochan.  As we tucked ourselves behind the northern buttress of Gearr Aonach, the weather eased, and along with clear views, made for a very enjoyable ascent of the Zig Zags.  Crampons were definitely not required for the scramble, as most the ledges were just covered in soft, saturated graupel. Once on Gearr Aonach, we battled a few squalls, but again, in between the squalls, we had great views across to the Aonach Eagach and to the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  We could also make out the various teams climbing on Far Eastern Buttress.

After being battered by the wind a few times, we decided to traverse into Coire Nan Lochan and make our way down to the car.  Overall, it had been a great day and we'd lasted a good 7 hours.

Just before one of the squalls on Gearr Aonach

Seconds later!

Stob Coire nan Lochan, laden with snow

Far Eastern Buttress, Aonach Dubh

The Cenotaph Corner of Winter? Cutlass, Ben Nevis

How Cutlass only gets one star is beyond me, the route is excellent!  Today, with stormy conditions, snow and a lowering freezing level forecasted, not to mention the high avalanche risk on north easterly through to south easterly aspects, James and I decided a route low down and westerly facing on Ben Nevis would be a wise choice.  Snow had fallen just about to sea level through the night, which was a good sign for our chosen route, 'Cutlass VI,7' on The Douglas Boulder.  This route requires low freezing levels for the turf to freeze, and useful ice to form in the corner crack.

Ben Nevis this morning.  CIC Cascades slowly forming.

Coire Na Ciste this morning, before the weather came in

Me on the crux pitch

We were the first team along the Allt a'Mhuilin path, which had a fresh covering of about 2 inches of snow, which was starting to thaw as we descended this afternoon.  The skies were remarkably clear, and the top of Ben Nevis could be seen.  This was the calm before the storm!  On arrival at the base of the corner, it was clear that the cracks were verglassed, which meant that Dave Macleod's tactic of leap frogging hexes, mentioned in this Planet Fear article, was not going to work.  I led up the first pitch, which was although quite sustained, was never desperate, and although gear was not overly plentiful, it was just about enough, and with good hooks and reasonable footholds, yielded with not too much of a battle.  Quite an absorbing and entertaining pitch, with great climbing!  James proceeded to lead through up a short chimney, with a tricky couple of moves round the capping chockstone, before easier ground led to the 'South West Ridge III/IV 4'.  We descended West Gully, and passed numerous teams from Plas Y Brenin and Jagged Globe, starting up the various routes in the vicinity, prehaps one of the few safe places to be today!  We did see people retreating from Coire Na Ciste and Observatory Gully.

James enjoying the steep crux pitch

James beyond the difficulties of the chimney pitch

Vanishing Gully seemed to be reforming, and must be close to being climbable, and numerous other ice lines lower on the mountain (CIC Cascades, Waterfall Gully, Bloomers Requim etc.) are all slowly forming. It's looking promising!

In the clouds: Green Gully, Ben Nevis

Tower Ridge and No. 2 Gully area this morning

A second day working for West Coast Mountain Guides, with Ashley and Dimitri, saw us back up Ben Nevis.  The freezing level had dropped though the night, and it felt markedly cooler this morning, even down at sea level.  It's the first time in a while that the freezing levels have really dropped, which was certainly long overdue.  Ashley and Dimitri found yesterday's climb adventurous, but quite straight forward, and so wanted something slightly more challenging today.  We headed back up to Coire Na Ciste, an hour ahead of yesterday, to find the mountain much quieter.  There were only 4 teams gearing up beneath Trident Buttresses, two of whom were heading up to Glover's Chimney, one to have a look at Thompson's Route and one to head up Number 3 Gully Buttress.  The Cascade up by No. 2 Gully is looking good, as is quite a bit of the ice in that area. Green Gully did have a team on it already, they must have had an early start as they were at least half way up the route at 9am.

Dimitri and Ashley at a belay

Most of the climbing in Green Gully at the moment is at grade III, with a couple of steps of IV, and the snow and ice was in great condition, particularly on the crux pitch and on the direct finish.  Both Ashley and Dimitri were suitably challenged today, and did well for their third Scottish winter climb.  On topping out, we were greeted by fresh winds building rime on the exposed rock, which is certainly very promising.  The snow had really firmed up down to about 800m, and with winter looking to return with a vengeance this week, climbing conditions will improve in the long term.

Descending the Red Burn in the clouds.

Busy on the Ben: Number 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Following some quiet days on Ben Nevis, today was a stark contrast!  Understandably, as it is one of the few mountains still managing to hang onto it's winter coat.  There was a very steady stream flowing up hill alongside the Allt a'Mhuilinn today, comprising of teams of climbers, all with similar objectives in mind.  I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides today and was out with Ashley and Dimitri.  They had both climbed Tower Ridge a couple of weeks ago, and had found it to be at the edge of their comfort zones, so were looking to climb something of similar technical difficulty but perhaps without the length of Tower Ridge.

Ashley and Dimitri on the first belay

The gearing up spot in Coire na Ciste, beneath the Trident Buttresses resembled something from a school playground, with numerous climbing 'gangs' in varying stages of readiness.  Whilst gearing up, I noticed that Number 3 Gully Buttress had a team leaving the first pitch and with no one else heading that way, decided to go for it.  Fortunate really as it had been my number one choice from the outset.  Conditions on the route were overall very good.  The snow was firm enough, and the ice was, for the majority of the route, in good shape.  I was keen not to simply 'guide' Ashley and Dimitri, so we looked at belays, tactics, leader placed protection, protecting traverses and in-situ gear amongst much else.  The ice higher up on the route was quite thin, and care was needed not to destroy the remaining patches!

Views across Coire na Ciste

A thin, but climbable Two Step Corner

A thin, and climbed Quickstep

We pretty much had the route to ourselves, as we never really did catch up to the team ahead. Another great day to be out.   Both 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5' were complete, just, and there was a brave team on Quickstep, but I didn't quite see them negotiate a pencil of ice barely the width of my waist!  Other teams on Green Gully, The White Line, Banshee, Central Gully & RH of Creag Coire Na Ciste, Central Gully of The Trident Buttresses, Comb Gully amongst many others and reports of numerous teams on Point 5 Gully.  Freezing levels didn't really drop through the night as forecasted.