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Thursday, 6 October 2011
Tuesday, 4 October 2011
Something different: Drytooling at Newtyle Quarry
With a favourable forecast over east, Scott and I ventured to Newtyle Quarry, one of Scotland's few drytooling venues (the other that I know of is beneath Ballachulish Bridge in Glencoe, so please do let me know if you know of any others!).
Having not really done much drytooling before, we started on the easiest lines of the quarry, Bonzai and Grooviliscious, both coming in at D4 (roughly equivalent of Scottish VI), and I have to admit that neither of them were that straight forwards, both sporting a few blind moves and a number of thin hooks, nevermind having not really spent much time pulling on ice axes or standing on tiny edges with crampons for some time!
Having both led these, we had a go at Roofiliscious D5+, which packed a punch right from the floor. In the end, we decided it would be more conducive to top rope this line, which after working out a couple of the lower moves, was technically not too difficult. Just quite physical!
It was great to get the forearms working hard again, and re-adjusting to balancing with points on tiny edges, and hopefully good preparation for another good winter!
Here are a few tips for visiting Newtyle Quarry:
-Make sure that your axes are sharp, and ideally modified for mixed climbing (click here for more info). You'll reap the benefits of a sharp hook on the tips of your tools!
-Both belayer and climber should wear a helmet. Some of the rock is very loose, a fair sized block came down after we had pulled the ropes through.
-Eye/face protection probably isn't a bad idea should an axe placement pop.
-Take a clip-stick if you have one. We clipped the second bolts on each of the routes, just to limit ground fall potential.
Enjoy!
Having not really done much drytooling before, we started on the easiest lines of the quarry, Bonzai and Grooviliscious, both coming in at D4 (roughly equivalent of Scottish VI), and I have to admit that neither of them were that straight forwards, both sporting a few blind moves and a number of thin hooks, nevermind having not really spent much time pulling on ice axes or standing on tiny edges with crampons for some time!
 |
| Me on Bonzai |
 |
| Scott on Grooviliscious |
 |
| Scott on Roofiliscious |
It was great to get the forearms working hard again, and re-adjusting to balancing with points on tiny edges, and hopefully good preparation for another good winter!
Here are a few tips for visiting Newtyle Quarry:
-Make sure that your axes are sharp, and ideally modified for mixed climbing (click here for more info). You'll reap the benefits of a sharp hook on the tips of your tools!
-Both belayer and climber should wear a helmet. Some of the rock is very loose, a fair sized block came down after we had pulled the ropes through.
-Eye/face protection probably isn't a bad idea should an axe placement pop.
-Take a clip-stick if you have one. We clipped the second bolts on each of the routes, just to limit ground fall potential.
Enjoy!
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