Get in touch for Winter Courses 2011-12

As another summer passes by, it's time to look forward to this coming winter (not forgetting some autumnal rock climbing!), and with temperatures today on the summit of Ben Nevis just above freezing, it won't be long until the first snows arrive.  The past two winters have been fantastic, with some great early season conditions, so fingers crossed for a third.

Please do get in touch at applegateken@gmail.com or 07799 863068 if you are interested in developing your experience in the winter mountains this coming season.  I am based in Fort William throughout the year.
 
Prices per day start from: £160 for 1 person, £180 for 2 people, £200 for 3 people.

Very wintery up high: North Gully, Ben Nevis

For the second and final day, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary, we headed back up Ben Nevis, to tackle something a little more technical than yesterday and to have a look at the ropework and management involved with pitched climbing.  What started off as a dryish day, soon took a turn for the worse during the walk up to the CIC Hut, but whilst we were being rained on, the crags higher up were being coated by another fresh dusting of snow.

Fresh snow falling on the way up to Creag Coire Na Ciste

It was very quiet on the approach, although we did pass an optimistic adventurer with his skis strapped to his back!  We made for 'North Gully II' on Creag Coire Na Ciste, which is a great little route, with an interesting first pitch containing a step of steeper ice, before easing off, and passing through some quite dramatic scenery.  With spindrift pouring down, at times some heavy snow fall, rime building on the higher rocks and with fresh south westerly winds transporting snow onto the leeward slopes, creating pockets of fresh windslab, it felt as though we were back in the depths of winter.

Just above the crux on North Gully

The three did well on the three pitches of climbing, and we had just enough time to fulfil their ambition, to reach the summit of Ben Nevis.  The Red Burn bumslide is now riddled with holes, and is nowhere near as fun as last week.  Other teams out on Good Friday Climb, which was reported to be in good condition, Smith's Route, Central Gully Right Hand (which is said to be thin and the left hand line is no longer in), another team in North Gully and Green Gully is still apparently still in good shape.  Monday will be very wintery on the mountain, but again, temperatures are set to rise significantly during Tues and Wed, before cooling down again. These freeze/thaw conditions could well help regenerate the ice...  The fat lady hasn't sung just yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

A nice wintery surprise: Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Fresh snow this morning

Following a very mild Friday, with high winds, heavy rain and temperatures on the summit of Ben Nevis hitting 7 °C, I was a little unsure as to how wintery it would be for a two day Winter Mountaineering Course, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary. Fortune, it seemed, was to be on my side! Once the strong winds died, the temperatures dropped and the rain ceased, which all happened at once, at about 6am, it had left behind a reasonable cover of fresh snow down to about 700m. 

Final snow ridge of Ledge Route

Wes, Jamie and Gary had all climbed a number of grade 1 gullies, in the Lake District, and had plenty of experience summer hill walking and scrambling, but were after something a little more adventurous, and also were very interested in learning the rope work required to protect tricky steps both in ascent and descent.  My decision to head for 'Ledge Route II' was confirmed as we approached Coire Na Ciste, and saw that the fresh snow had transformed a previously quite bare Ledge Route back to its full winter glory.  Quick progress was made up this classic route, stopping occasionally to focus on various rope techniques, before making the summit of Carn Dearg, where there was at least 4 inches of fresh snow, and it was certainly very wintery up there.  We headed round to No. 4 Gully, and had a look at stacked abseiling to enter the gully.  On regaining the base of Coire Na Ciste, the clouds lifted and it was clear that a lot of the freshly fallen snow had melted, leaving Ledge Route quite black again.  The flatter sections will still be snow covered, but the steeper section will be back to bare rock.

Coire Na Ciste this afternoon

It was a very quiet day on Ben Nevis, with a couple of teams heading up into Observatory Gully and a couple of others on Ledge Route.  The ice that was on Good Eve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall is starting to look at bit thin, as did Hadrian's Wall Direct, which is riddled with large holes.  I'm sure Comb Gully Buttress will still be fine, as will Comb and Green Gully and some of the gullys on Creag Coire Na Ciste.  Freezing levels are due to be at 900m tomorrow, so it could be another good day.

Book Review: Winter Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glen Coe by Mike Pescod

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

As another great season of winter climbing draws to a close, perhaps a little sooner than hoped, I can honestly say that there has been one item that has made my winter climbing season that bit easier this year.  That is the seventh edition of Winter Climbs – Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, published by Cicerone.  The baton for writing this guidebook, which started off in Ian Clough’s hands, and passed through Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber, landed in the steady hands of local Mountain Guide, Mike Pescod, and it’s quite clear, from initial impressions, that the substantial task of compiling a new guide for the premier winter climbing area in the UK, has been done very well.

The cover shot of Dave Macleod on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, Orion Direct, gives the impression that the route is far steeper than it actually is.  Whilst the route and climber seem to be the ideal choice, the angle could do with adjusting.  I’d go so far as to say that I personally prefer the cover photo on the previous addition, but, as with all books, it is the all important content that counts, and the introductory chapter, which covers topics including: Climbing Conditions, Weather and Avalanches, Access and Rescue Facilities, is a must read, condensing years of experience into an easy to read and understand chapter, which any new comer to the area should get to grips with.  

The guidebook boasts over 900 climbs, a number of which are new routes since both the last edition and the SMC’s guidebooks, but one of the highlights of this edition must be the photo topos for almost all the crags, which are not only highly functional, but very inspiring too, and along with the various climbing shots and anecdotes, has ensured that the guidebook has lived on the coffee table, when not in the rucksack, throughout the winter.  

Lastly, the guidebook bridges an ever growing gap between the SMC publications, and certainly for those who tend towards winter climbing on the west coast of Scotland, this guidebook is a must.

Great ice on Comb Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

The initial icefall

Given that the forecast for today was light rain, I thought it would be worth heading up high, to find some late season ice on Ben Nevis. My better half, Han, and I have not really had much opportunity to climb together this winter, as she has been very focused on working towards her Winter ML Assessment, which I'm pleased to say she sailed through, so we thought it would be great to swing leads, and decided to seek out 'Comb Gully Buttress IV,4', just to the left of 'Comb Gully IV,4'. Seeking the buttress was easier said than done, as we were immersed in a thick pea souper upon gaining Coire Na Ciste. I have looked across at Comb Gully Buttress a couple of times in the past and been drawn to the route by an impressive icefall at the base, which overlooks the entrance to 'No.2 Gully'. I wasn't to be disappointed today, the icefall whilst only 6m or so high, was steep and sustained, and good fun! Grade IV,4, I think not!

Han then took over the lead, across the intermediate snow field, and then up the final pitch, which proved to be another excellent pitch of ice, with a couple of steep steps, which Han did very well to lead. Definitely quite stiff for IV,4, more like IV,5. Looking through the various guidebooks that exist, the true line of Comb Gully Buttress is slightly ambiguous, but whatever we did climb, it was a quality line, with some great ice, and is highly recommended!

Han setting off on Pitch 3

The bum slide down the Red Burn is the best it has been all season, and gives you 2 minutes of continuous slide, a relaxing way to descend the mountain! That may well have been my last day of personal climbing this winter, but only time will tell...

Due to the thick cloud that shrouded the mountain today, it was very hard to see anything, but 'Comb Gully' is still in great conditions, and 'The Comb - Left Flank' looked to be complete. The weekend still looks good for winter climbing.

Just hanging on in there: No. 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Day four out with the three from Sheffield.  With a good forecast, and not many other options, heading up high on Ben Nevis seemed to be the sensible choice, and 'No. 3 Gully Buttress III' high in Coire Na Ciste the most appropriate route.  The great thing about the route is that every pitch is different, and the line makes it's way through some very impressive scenery.  There is also scope for much variation, allowing additional difficulties to be included, depending on conditions.

Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall

As we entered a deserted Coire Na Ciste, we had great views over towards Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall, and it looks as though the first couple of pitches of 'The White Line III' are still holding on in there, and could be used to gain 'Raeburn's Easy Route II'.  'The Gutter III,4' and 'Beam Me Up Scotty III' also look just about complete, so a combination of the lower pitches of 'Glover's Chimney III,4' and then moving onto 'The Gutter' may also provide a good day out.  The lower pitches of our route, No. 3 Gully Buttress, could also be clearly seen, and looked to be in good conditions, and having climbed the route earlier this season, during another thaw, I was confident that there would be enough snow and ice to complete the route.  I chose to head directly up the first pitch, taking in a nice section of steeper (and very hard) ice, which the others all enjoyed, before moving across the big traverse, underneath 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5', which is complete, but dripping wet, and no doubt quite unstable.  Above the traverse, I opted for a rocky pitch, which heads straight up to the plateau.  There is enough ice on this pitch, but again, its very hard in places, shatters quite easily, and required care to climb.

The big traverse on No. 3 Gully Buttress

Topping out on a cloud free Ben Nevis

We were treated to blue skies and sunshine (a surprisingly reoccurring theme this winter!) on topping out, and enjoyed the quickest way off the mountain, the Red Burn bum slide, which has developed a few gaping holes. Another great day on Ben Nevis! We only saw two other teams climbing, both on 'Green Gully IV,4'. which is holding on well, and Mike Pescod was out on 'Comb Gully IV,3' and reported good ice.  Forecast is for cooler temperatures, so the ice that's still there should last a bit longer...  It's not over yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

On the sharp end: The Runnel, Cairngorms

As Ben was moaning about blisters (they are pretty bad really, and he didn't moan too much), and with a better forecast for the east, I decided that a trip to The Cairngorms would be more beneficial today.  The walk into Coire an t'Sneachda was quite easy going, and despite the thaw, the snow underfoot wasn't giving way too easily.  We were the second team into the coire, with Fi Chappell from Talisman Mountaineering and Martin Moran with their clients in hot pursuit.  Our plan was to climb 'The Runnel II', which is normally a very popular route, but fortunately, the others had different objectives, enabling us to climb the route at our pace, without sending snow and ice down onto teams below. 

John, leading his first winter climb

 

On the final icy pitch

Given the good protection available on the route, along with the soft snow with steps already in place, John was able to jump onto the sharp end, with me soloing alongside, offering advice and tips as he steadily and comfortably moved up his first winter lead.  Despite the good cracks which litter the side walls of the climb, quite a few blocks were loose, and we were able to assess and avoid these.  John made good progress, and led the first three pitches smoothly, and was able to organise Phil and Ben at each belay efficiently.  The final pitch, a narrow, icey chimney was obviously the crux of the route, so in order to ensure his safety, I soloed up, placing key gear and runners for John to clip into as he tackled his first bit of steeper and harder ice.  The cracks easily consumed most the rack, allowing for a well protected pitch, which John climbed with no problem at all, he then cruised the upper snow slope which provided good axe and foot placements.  Well done on your first winter lead!  We were treated to some fantastic views over to Ben Macdui and Ben Mheadhoin in the afternoon, and descended alongside a busy Coire Cas.

Clear views out to Ben Mheadhoin

Coire an t'Sneachda

It was a quiet day in the coire, with other teams on 'Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV,4', which looked great, 'Crotched Gully I/II', and Martin mentioned heading over to climb 'Afterthought Arete III'.

It turned out alright: Dorsal Arete, Glencoe

South Buttress of Stob Coire Nan Lochan
 

Another day out with Phil, Ben and John.  As we pulled up in Glencoe this morning, there was low cloud and it was drizzling, without any signs of letting up.  Fortunately for us, the forecast of a high pressure moving in as the day progress materialised, and from about 11am onwards, we were treated to blue skies and sunshine, along with some great views out towards the Aonach Eagach and beyond.

This was my first time climbing 'Dorsal Arete II', on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe, and given the traffic that the route had received yesterday, I was fearing the worst, given the current winter conditions, but we lucked out, and were the first of only two teams today.  The route is quite straight forward, starting on snow slopes just to the right of Broad Gully, and with good conditions on the route for the most part, we made good progress up the easier section of the route, before heading up a slightly bare chimney, and gaining the exciting finale, the exposed rocky fin, which today didn't require an axe, but did require a bit of care due to the loose blocks.  I'm sure that the route must change each season due to rockfall, but today we didn't significantly add to the erosion of the route, and topped out on the snow free west shoulder of Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Another great day out!

Jenga blocks on Dorsal Arete, be careful what you pull on!

It was very quiet in Stob Coire Nan Lochan today, and the blackness of the buttresses will be the reason why.  Boomerang Gully and Broad Gully (descended by a team today) are complete and Forked Gully, North Gully and NC Gully still look complete, although SC Gully is missing large sections.  The top-outs of some of these gullies will be quite precarious given the steep and soggy cornices still present, and until temperatures drop, which will happen to an extent through the night, they are probably worth avoiding.

Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Faulty Plumbing on Fawlty Towers, Ben Nevis

A huge difference from Saturday!

With soaring temperatures, I thought that the ice on Fawlty Towers may just about be hanging on in there.  It was, just.  Today, I was out with my brother, Phil, and a couple of his friends from Sheffield, John and Ben.  Ben and my brother had kindly helped me out when getting ready for my Mountain Instructor Award Assessment back in October, and again, with my Mountain Instructor Certificate Assessment in the pipeline, the three of them were willing 'guinea pigs' once again.  I should point out that they're all very enthusiastic and keen to learn the ropes of winter climbing, so a win-win situation for all.

Carn Dearg to Castle Ridge

Fawlty Towers is normally a great grade III snow/ice climb, finishing low down on Tower Ridge, however today, it was looking a little bit lean, and with water dripping down all the buttresses of Ben Nevis that I could see (the cloud was low, so I couldn't see up into Coire Na Ciste or Observatory Gully), it was going to be a damp experience for all.  The first pitch usually involves a good snow-ice groove, however today, we had to take a line slightly to the right which involved a bit of rock climbing in order to gain the thinning ice above, which was good fun, and not without interest. The turf was still frozen in places, and what ice there was, was not bad at all, but care was needed not to dislodge the now unfrozen blocks.   The three climbed well and quickly, helped by their previous rock climbing experience, and it wasn't long until we gained the crest of Tower Ridge.  It did sound as though there was a team on Tower Ridge, but given the low cloud, it was impossible to be sure.  We descended Tower Ridge and the West Gully of Douglas Boulder, which all added to the adventure of the day. 

Looking up Fawlty Towers, taken by Phil Applegate

 
Conditions on the mountain are far from ideal, with a huge thaw currently in progress, and due to continue throughout the next few days.  With a high pressure system set to dominate as of tomorrow, our saving grace might just be the cooler night time temperatures.  Vanishing Gully, Italian Climb and the routes on the Douglas Boulder are all no longer climbable, reports from others suggested that the ice lines on Creag Coire Na Ciste are no longer viable either, but a team did climb No. 3 Gully Buttress.  I'd imagine that Green Gully and the ice lines high on the mountain are hanging on in there, but for how much longer I wouldn't like to say.

Déjà vu: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

It felt like only yesterday that I was last up on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, and therefore the UK.  In fact it was three whole days ago!  Today, I was working for Abacus Mountaineering, and out with Parminder who had at the last minute, having been cancelled on by his regular climbing partner, driven the 500 miles from Sheffield in order to get some ice climbed, and to hopefully learn a thing or two along the way.

As we walked up to the CIC Hut, it was apparent that there were already a few teams already established on Orion Direct, and with numerous teams gearing up at the foot of Observatory Gully, things were not looking great for getting onto our number one choice of route.  Fortunately, as we approached the teams, they all shot off up towards the East Gully of Tower Ridge, and with a couple of other teams disappearing up towards Hadrian's Wall, which looks fantastic, and Observatory Ridge, a gap opened up at the base of Orion Direct.  Parminder had already led Point 5 and Zero Gully, and coupled with being a keen rock climber, it was clear that he was going to make short work of the climbing on Orion Direct.  The thing that did take time was the waiting as teams progressed at very varying rates.  We topped out at 6:30pm, with still a number of teams still climbing various routes.  A long, but again, excellent day, and I certainly don't think Parminder minded the slightly later than planned finish.  I remember him mentioning 'good value for money' on the descent!

Conditions on the route were overall quite good, not too dissimilar to how they were on Wednesday, however, the crux pitch is starting to show signs of wear from the countless ice axe placements, and unless some melt/freeze takes place, the crucial patches of ice just beyond the traverse on the crux pitch will become quite insecure in the not too distant future.  One team started Observatory Ridge as we walked around the toe of the ridge, and seemed to be finding conditions on the ridge slow going, there seemed to still be a lot of unconsolidated snow on the crest.  Another team headed up Epsilon Chimney IV,4, from The Basin, which again looked excellent, and a good alternative to Orion Direct.  Astral Highway will still be in condition, as for the time being will the other ice lines high on the mountain; Point 5 Gully, Smiths Route, Indicator Wall, Observatory Buttress etc. but with warmer temperatures this week, things lower down will be deteriorating rapidly and care is required, particularly in the gullies as cornices start to collapse.

Simply Stunning: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis this morning.

Back up Ben Nevis again today, and what a difference to yesterday!  Again working for Abacus Mountaineering, the same two pairings as yesterday, Phil with Mike and Dominic with myself all decided to head up to have a look at something long and icy.  It doesn't really get as long and icey as 'Astral Highway VI,5', which Mike and Phil headed for, and 'Orion Direct V,5', which we had in mind.  There had been a hard freeze through the night, which helped with the walk-in to the CIC Hut, and with clear blue skies, things were looking excellent!

Mike heading up the second pitch

Spindrift coming down the second pitch

On route, we followed a French team, and Richard Bentley with his client, but despite there being three teams, we rarely had to wait long.  With clear skies, amazing views, little wind and great climbing, the waiting really wasn't an issue either.  The crux, the traverse on pitch five, was a bit thin today and not particularly well protected, but the climbing at that point is never too hard, and once the traverse was over, there was ample opportunity to get an ice screw in.  We topped out to magnificent vistas in every direction, and could easily make out Skye, The Cairngorms, Schiehallion, Glencoe and Rhum.  There was a lot of spindrift pouring down Point 5 Gully when the winds picked up in the afternoon.  The descent from the Halfway Lochain to the North Face Car Park is hard going at the moment, with very deep snow in places.

The team walking over towards the summit of Ben Nevis this afternoon

All in all, a great couple of days, with two very different routes.  Other teams out on Hadrian's Wall Direct, Tower Ridge, Upper Tower Cascades, and again numerous teams heading up to Vanishing Gully.  One team backed away from Observatory Ridge, no doubt due to the amount of loose snow on it.  Unfortunately, an avalanche came down Garadh Gully and injured a French team in the vicinity.

In the clouds: Green Gully, Ben Nevis

Tower Ridge and No. 2 Gully area this morning

A second day working for West Coast Mountain Guides, with Ashley and Dimitri, saw us back up Ben Nevis.  The freezing level had dropped though the night, and it felt markedly cooler this morning, even down at sea level.  It's the first time in a while that the freezing levels have really dropped, which was certainly long overdue.  Ashley and Dimitri found yesterday's climb adventurous, but quite straight forward, and so wanted something slightly more challenging today.  We headed back up to Coire Na Ciste, an hour ahead of yesterday, to find the mountain much quieter.  There were only 4 teams gearing up beneath Trident Buttresses, two of whom were heading up to Glover's Chimney, one to have a look at Thompson's Route and one to head up Number 3 Gully Buttress.  The Cascade up by No. 2 Gully is looking good, as is quite a bit of the ice in that area. Green Gully did have a team on it already, they must have had an early start as they were at least half way up the route at 9am.

Dimitri and Ashley at a belay

Most of the climbing in Green Gully at the moment is at grade III, with a couple of steps of IV, and the snow and ice was in great condition, particularly on the crux pitch and on the direct finish.  Both Ashley and Dimitri were suitably challenged today, and did well for their third Scottish winter climb.  On topping out, we were greeted by fresh winds building rime on the exposed rock, which is certainly very promising.  The snow had really firmed up down to about 800m, and with winter looking to return with a vengeance this week, climbing conditions will improve in the long term.

Descending the Red Burn in the clouds.

Busy on the Ben: Number 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Following some quiet days on Ben Nevis, today was a stark contrast!  Understandably, as it is one of the few mountains still managing to hang onto it's winter coat.  There was a very steady stream flowing up hill alongside the Allt a'Mhuilinn today, comprising of teams of climbers, all with similar objectives in mind.  I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides today and was out with Ashley and Dimitri.  They had both climbed Tower Ridge a couple of weeks ago, and had found it to be at the edge of their comfort zones, so were looking to climb something of similar technical difficulty but perhaps without the length of Tower Ridge.

Ashley and Dimitri on the first belay

The gearing up spot in Coire na Ciste, beneath the Trident Buttresses resembled something from a school playground, with numerous climbing 'gangs' in varying stages of readiness.  Whilst gearing up, I noticed that Number 3 Gully Buttress had a team leaving the first pitch and with no one else heading that way, decided to go for it.  Fortunate really as it had been my number one choice from the outset.  Conditions on the route were overall very good.  The snow was firm enough, and the ice was, for the majority of the route, in good shape.  I was keen not to simply 'guide' Ashley and Dimitri, so we looked at belays, tactics, leader placed protection, protecting traverses and in-situ gear amongst much else.  The ice higher up on the route was quite thin, and care was needed not to destroy the remaining patches!

Views across Coire na Ciste

A thin, but climbable Two Step Corner

A thin, and climbed Quickstep

We pretty much had the route to ourselves, as we never really did catch up to the team ahead. Another great day to be out.   Both 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5' were complete, just, and there was a brave team on Quickstep, but I didn't quite see them negotiate a pencil of ice barely the width of my waist!  Other teams on Green Gully, The White Line, Banshee, Central Gully & RH of Creag Coire Na Ciste, Central Gully of The Trident Buttresses, Comb Gully amongst many others and reports of numerous teams on Point 5 Gully.  Freezing levels didn't really drop through the night as forecasted.

Quiet in Observatory Gully: Observatory Buttress, Ben Nevis

With the freezing level forecasted to be high for today, James and I decided to go high on Ben Nevis, with the intention of climbing the ice line of 'Observatory Buttress V,4'.  We walked in with blue skies and sunshine, which stayed with us for most of the day, although the clouds did occasionally roll in, eerily down Observatory Gully and obscure otherwise very clear views of Tower Ridge.  It was quiet on this side of the mountain, with two teams on Hadrian's Wall and two on Point 5 Gully.  A couple of other teams passed beneath us later on, Mike and his client who climbed 'Smith's Route V,5', which has only really just come into conditions, and there were footsteps leading up to a well formed 'Tower Scoop III'.

Coire Na Ciste today

 

Observatory Gully today

James starting up pitch 1, with Hadrian's Wall in the background.

The route was clearly in good condition, judging by the fat white streak on an otherwise blackening buttress.  James led the first pitch, which was a straight forward icy groove, to the first snowy bay.  I took over the lead and led through the various bulges and steps of ice, before climbing through the short but steep crux.   The ice so far had been nothing short of excellent, taking first time axe placements and good ice screws where required.  James led on through to reach the large terrace, from where an escape into Observatory Gully is possible.  I was keen to have a go at the 'Direct Finish V,5', which is the recommended finish for a number of the other climbs which finish at the terrace, so a big traverse put us at the base of a well formed icy groove.  James then led the groove well, and after 50m, belayed over towards 'Left Edge V,5'.  From here, it was obvious where the Direct Finish went, but it was also clear that the ice was quite thin, so that axes were going to have to be carefully placed, and that the climbing would link patches of thicker ice and neve on the ledges and less steep sections.  After three tied off ice screws, I was able to get a sinker, before committing to a series of more technical moves, and finally appreciated the security of a well hammered No. 10 nut!  The climbing was never desperate, in fact, it was good fun, but quite serious at the same time.  We topped out to an amazing cloud inversion, with only the tops of Carn Dearg, Trident Buttress and the summit popping out, and both agreed that it had been a fantastic route!

Me on the crux pitch.  It was steeper than it looks!

The temperature didn't rise as much as forecasted, with the freezing level at about 1100-1200m through the day.  Tomorrow's forecast is for milder conditions and strong south westerly gusts, so it would be worth sticking to the thicker ice routes.

Views of Tower Ridge

Hadrian's Wall Direct, Sickle and Point 5 Gully

 

More spice for the Spaniards; Typhoon, East Face of Aonach Mor

Abseiling down the line of Morwind

Whilst Fort William was covered by a heavy blanket of cloud, caused by a temperature inversion, my two amigos were asking whether they should have brought sun cream such was the clarity of the sky.  Fabien and Jorge were keen for something harder today, to really get to grips with steeper winter climbing, so following yesterday's big day out, I decided to get up onto Aonach Mor, with the promise of more scoured (less avalanche) prone east facing crags.  We were one of the first teams up on the summit and abseiled in via 'Morwind IV,4', which currently has three equipped abseils (do check the state of the tat, and more importantly, do not abseil onto teams already climbing).  There was a reasonable amount of snow beneath the crags, but it was fairly secure, although we did rope up from the base of Morwind to reach the base of 'Typhoon IV,5'.

Alpinesque on the East Face of Aonach Mor, with Turf Walk
directly above and Roaring Forties on the right

With blue skies, and brilliant white ice on the crags, there was definitely a non-Scottish feel to the descent!  Typhoon receives three stars in the guidebooks, and rightly so, as it's brilliant!  We climbed three sustained pitches, which all offered great and interesting climbing, which really tested Fabien and Jorge.  They were enjoying every minute of it, well at least whenever I asked them, although I may have missed their Spanish obscenities at the belays, as ice showered down on them!  I may be putting my neck on the line, but I honestly think it to be a far better climb than 'White Shark IV,4' providing far more interest.  The ice was mostly good, allowing mainly first time axe placements, but I didn't want to trust too much of the ice with screws, fortunately there is plenty of rock gear in the right wall, along with a couple of in-situ pegs.

Fabien and Jorge on the final pitch.  Big cornices present.

Lots of other teams out, many of whom descended via Easy Gully, including Denis and Susan who climbed 'Tunnel Vision III' and Alex and James climbed Pumkin on Creag Meagaidh and reported it to be in good condition.   A great two days, giving a nice snapshot of Scottish winter climbing for Fabien and Jorge.  The only thing they've missed out on are the strong winds and rain which also form a big part of climbing up here!  

More like typical Scottish conditions on the summit!

A Grand Day Out: East Ridge, Stob Ban

At the moment, two friends from Spain have come over, in the hope of bagging their first Scottish winter climbs!  Luckily, I'm fresh out of MIC Training, and was keen to give Fabien and Jorge a flavoursome taste of Scottish winter climbing, whilst using them as guinea pigs, or Conejillo de Indias!  I didn't think they would have any objections!  It wasn't easy to pick a route which fulfilled all the criteria of being an ideal intro route, providing big adventure, whilst being safe given the high avalanche risk, forcasted by the SAIS for Lochaber and Glencoe.  It was in the eleventh hour that I decided to try the 'East Ridge II/III' of Stob Ban in the Mamores.  Route choice was again absolutely critical, and the East Ridge on the North Buttress seemed to tick all the boxes: a ridge, east facing, safe approach over low angled slopes, safe descent and potential for adventure.

Fabien and Jorge enjoying themselves

I've not climbed on Stob Ban before, and I've no idea why really, as the East Ridge was great!  It has quite a mountaineering feel, with some varied climbing, from snowy ridges to short technical steps, and has great gear and belays all the way.  Route finding didn't seem to be too tricky, with it being a case of following your nose, although I'm sure many variations at the grade are possible.   Conditions on route could not really have been better, with bomber turf, solid neve, and not too much loose snow.

Fabien and Jorge tackling one of the trickier steps

We opted to descend by going over the summit of Stob Ban at 999m, and then follow the ridge east to then head north back down the Allt Coire a'Mhusgain.  Fabien and Jorge are both keen sport climbers, so fitness and physical ability were not going to pose too much of an issue, but I'm sure they'll both sleep well tonight!  There were other teams on the route, how many exactly, I've no idea, as we were the first team, and only saw two other teams.

All clad in yellow, on the summit of Stob Ban, 999m

Careful pickings: North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor, Glencoe

Choice of route today was absolutely essential, given the high avalanche risk on the mountains.  John, James, Alex and I decided to play it safe, and chose to head to Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe to climb 'North Buttress (West Route) IV,4'.  Mike Pescod's new guidebook 'Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glencoe', published by Cicerone, suggests that once established on the route, that it is safe from avalanches.  It has to be stressed that this does not include the approach, which could be prone to avalanches, particularly due to the angle of some of the slopes.

A stag, standing proud, with North Buttress in the background

Alex waving from the top of pitch one

The route, which is made up of a series of chimneys and grooves, provided some great climbing, although quite bit of clearing was required today to find those buried hooks and gear placements!  Belays are all big blocks, which meant that we could abseil back down the route from the top of the difficulties to beyond the start, in four abseils.   The winds were strong southerlies, although wrapped around the northern end of the mountain, transporting a lot of loose snow from east to west, and also throwing quite a bit of spindrift down the route!  Windslab was forming on the approach, particularly on the western side of the broad ridge as the day progressed, but we were able to stick to the exposed rocks, turf and lower angled slopes to ensure a safe descent. It was a social day, with four of us out, and we did come across another team starting up, just as we finished our last abseil.

John having just thrutched his way up
the difficulties of pitch two