Book Review: Skye Scrambles by Noel Williams

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

The Isle of Skye unquestionably boasts some of the finest scrambling and climbing opportunities in the UK, and for many mountaineers, the traverse of the spectacular Cuillin Ridge, arcing 12km and providing some of the most dramatic and challenging mountainous terrain in the UK is a life long ambition.  However, it’s not just the Cuillin Ridge that draws mountaineers and walkers, as numerous outings, of high quality, can be found across the island, which is quite useful, given the notoriously changeable Hebridean weather.

The eagerly awaited second edition of Skye Scrambles, published by the SMC is finally in the shops, and just a brief flick through the pages, was enough to convince me that this guidebook is an absolute must for anyone with a mountaineering interest in the area.  The most striking feature of this guidebook must be the hand drawn topos, as for the first time that I’m aware of, the drawings are now in full colour, showing intricate detail through careful hill-shading, providing information that even photos can not always offer.  Whilst predominantly a scrambling guidebook, a healthy selection of easier climbs and walks have also been included, giving the reader plenty of options in almost any weather condition, and as with all SMC guidebooks, inspiring chapters on geology, history and environment are included, all of which can easily enhance one’s experience of mountaineering on Skye.

The second edition of Skye Scrambles fell into my hands only a couple of days before a planned working visit to Skye, provided me with the ideal opportunity to put the guidebook through it’s paces.  During four days on Skye, I covered the following: West Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr Nan Gillean, Direct Route up the East Ridge and down King’s Cave Chimney of Am Basteir, and the majority of the Ridge Traverse, starting at Gars-bheinn and descending after Sgùrr a’ Mhadaidh, and can honestly say that this new guidebook helped me to no end, particularly the chapter that describes the Cuillin Ridge Traverse, which includes clear yet simple descriptions and perhaps more useful, well annotated and simplified maps.  If the rest of the guidebook is this useable, which I’m absolutely certain it is, then a new benchmark for scrambling guidebooks has been set.

So, if you want help fathoming out the most complex and spectacular mountain range in the UK, you know what to do.

Book Review: Winter Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glen Coe by Mike Pescod

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

As another great season of winter climbing draws to a close, perhaps a little sooner than hoped, I can honestly say that there has been one item that has made my winter climbing season that bit easier this year.  That is the seventh edition of Winter Climbs – Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, published by Cicerone.  The baton for writing this guidebook, which started off in Ian Clough’s hands, and passed through Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber, landed in the steady hands of local Mountain Guide, Mike Pescod, and it’s quite clear, from initial impressions, that the substantial task of compiling a new guide for the premier winter climbing area in the UK, has been done very well.

The cover shot of Dave Macleod on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, Orion Direct, gives the impression that the route is far steeper than it actually is.  Whilst the route and climber seem to be the ideal choice, the angle could do with adjusting.  I’d go so far as to say that I personally prefer the cover photo on the previous addition, but, as with all books, it is the all important content that counts, and the introductory chapter, which covers topics including: Climbing Conditions, Weather and Avalanches, Access and Rescue Facilities, is a must read, condensing years of experience into an easy to read and understand chapter, which any new comer to the area should get to grips with.  

The guidebook boasts over 900 climbs, a number of which are new routes since both the last edition and the SMC’s guidebooks, but one of the highlights of this edition must be the photo topos for almost all the crags, which are not only highly functional, but very inspiring too, and along with the various climbing shots and anecdotes, has ensured that the guidebook has lived on the coffee table, when not in the rucksack, throughout the winter.  

Lastly, the guidebook bridges an ever growing gap between the SMC publications, and certainly for those who tend towards winter climbing on the west coast of Scotland, this guidebook is a must.

Book Review: Rockfax Climbing Guide to El Chorro, Spain

Below is a book review I had published in Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer in 2010.

Being predominantly a Scotland based climber, the series of Rockfax Guidebooks hadn’t crossed my path frequently, however last year, once the autumnal rains had set in, and the prospect of dry rock seemed a while away, I looked to get away, and so, with the venue of El Chorro chosen, all I could do was to wait until Rockfax printed their new guidebook to the area. 

Fortunately over the festive period, the guidebook landed on my doormat, and first impressions were quickly established.  I think I speak for a large number of El Chorro guidebook users, in that I really felt that one of the biggest flaws is the front cover.  The old cliché goes ‘you shouldn’t judge a book by it’s cover’, and whilst I’m sure the climber in question is overjoyed that she’s managed to gain pole position within the guidebook, it just misses the essence of what’s available in and around the magnificent gorge of El Chorro.

Despite that, and moving on to the all important content and layout, the guidebook reflects the hard labour, which Mark Glaister has poured into this publication.  The tried and tested layout of Rockfax, works well, providing just enough information about each route to still give a healthy degree of adventure.  The photo topos when combined with clear and simple maps, used throughout, enabled ease of route (and sector) finding, particularly when trying to navigate around the extensive Frontales crags.  A number of outlying crags are also detailed in the guidebook, allowing climbers the welcome change of scenery.

It must be noted that the greatest challenge found within the guidebook, for some, may well not be a redpoint attempt on Orujo, weighing in at a hefty 9a+ at Archidona, but in finding the 20 bulls, hidden, sometimes with ridiculous obscurity throughout the guidebook, something for those rare wet days…

If heading out for some winter sun, Rockfax’s El Chorro Guidebook should be high on any climber’s list, and having met plenty of local and international climbers out there, all using this guidebook, it would seem that this guidebook has become the number one choice.