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Wednesday, 30 March 2011

Great ice on Comb Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

The initial icefall




Given that the forecast for today was light rain, I thought it would be worth heading up high, to find some late season ice on Ben Nevis. My better half, Han, and I have not really had much opportunity to climb together this winter, as she has been very focused on working towards her Winter ML Assessment, which I'm pleased to say she sailed through, so we thought it would be great to swing leads, and decided to seek out 'Comb Gully Buttress IV,4', just to the left of 'Comb Gully IV,4'. Seeking the buttress was easier said than done, as we were immersed in a thick pea souper upon gaining Coire Na Ciste. I have looked across at Comb Gully Buttress a couple of times in the past and been drawn to the route by an impressive icefall at the base, which overlooks the entrance to 'No.2 Gully'. I wasn't to be disappointed today, the icefall whilst only 6m or so high, was steep and sustained, and good fun! Grade IV,4, I think not!

Han then took over the lead, across the intermediate snow field, and then up the final pitch, which proved to be another excellent pitch of ice, with a couple of steep steps, which Han did very well to lead. Definitely quite stiff for IV,4, more like IV,5. Looking through the various guidebooks that exist, the true line of Comb Gully Buttress is slightly ambiguous, but whatever we did climb, it was a quality line, with some great ice, and is highly recommended!
Han setting off on Pitch 3

The bum slide down the Red Burn is the best it has been all season, and gives you 2 minutes of continuous slide, a relaxing way to descend the mountain! That may well have been my last day of personal climbing this winter, but only time will tell...

Due to the thick cloud that shrouded the mountain today, it was very hard to see anything, but 'Comb Gully' is still in great conditions, and 'The Comb - Left Flank' looked to be complete. The weekend still looks good for winter climbing.

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