The Wild North West: Glen Sheil & Torridon

Back in 2004, I took my first steps on steeper snow and ice, on an introductory winter climbing course with Martin Moran, and I remember it well, with days out on the rugged mountains of Liathach, Meall Gorm, Fuar Tholl and Sgurr an Lochain.  Since then, despite numerous promises to myself, I have only spent a very small amount of time up in the north west, so decided to start doing something about it.  I had the opportunity to join the same course that I had been a participant on 6 years previous, with the aim of picking up tips and techniques required to instruct and coach winter climbing in an adventurous yet efficient and safe manner.

Looking out towards Beinn Dearg and Loch Maree

Tuesday was spent on 'Way-up Gully I' in the magnificent Coire Dubh Mor (translates as 'Big Black Coirre'), on one of the finest ridges on the UK mainland, Liathach.  This corrie is home to some of the great ice lines of the North West, including 'Poacher's Fall V,5', 'Salmon's Leap VI,6' and 'Umbrella Falls V,5'.  I had climbed Umbrella Falls quite a few years ago, arguably having bitten off a little more than my climbing partner, Andy, and I could chew back then!  We did finish the climb, albeit in the dark, and made it down safely, but we both certainly learnt a thing or two that day!  I digress, so back to 2011, we ascended Way-Up Gully, and continued to the summit of the most easterly Munro of Liathach, Spidean a'Choire Leith, to then descend 'South Gully I'. The upper slopes on the south side had been scoured, leaving quite a hard icey surface, fortunately lower down, below 700m or so, it was much easier going with the softer snow.  The ice lines today were a long way from being complete, with only the thinnest of smears of ice highlighting where the various lines of thick, dribbling ice should be.  These routes all require snow lying above to feed the ice through cycles of melt/freeze, and fortunately, despite there being very little snow above the lines on Tuesday, this will have changed over the course of the week! 

Descending a very snowy Forcan Ridge

Wednesday saw a later start, in the hope of making the most of a reasonable weather window.  To a large degree, this worked, as despite a wet start, making our way up to a grade I gully on the north side of the 'Forcan Ridge II' in the Munro lined valley of Glen Sheil, we topped out and descended the ridge in much calmer conditions.  Snow fell heavily throughout the middle of the day, and was settling down to 600m.  Rivers and streams remained in spate!  Throughout the day, the risk of thunderstorms was present, due to a mass of warm air being forced upwards by an incoming wedge of cold air. More info here: Causes of Thunderstorms.  Later that evening, Glencarron was treated to a display of forked lighting, the booming of thunder and the threat of power cuts.

Tricky down climbing on The Traverse of A'Chioch, Beinn Bhan

Thursday morning brought an early start, due to the promises of foul weather hitting the west coast of the UK mid afternoon.  The team today headed up onto Beinn Bhan, a magnificent Corbett, with its six dramatic NE facing coires, the majority of which containing a fine array of classic mixed and ice climbs, on some of the continuously steep cliffs in the UK.  The aim for the day was to climb one of the most adventurous grade IIs in the area, 'The Traverse of A'Chioch II'.  The route starts on the dividing ridge between Coire na Feola and Coire na Poite, and is more than just a straight forward climb, involving some down climbing, traversing and exposure to reach the final four pitches.  We were lucky to have blue skies, light winds and great views for the first few hours of the day, but on topping out, it was clear that things were changing, rapidly!  Some of the wildest weather I've experienced came through once we had finished, bringing with it torrential rain, storm force winds, and high up, a lot of fresh snow.  I'm sure the early start, and hence early finish was very much appreciated by all.


Whilst this stormy weather renders the hills almost out of bounds for the time being, in the long run, it will only lead to improved climbing conditions for the winter ahead, so long as its not perpetual!  Nevis Range is closed today, and looking out the window, I can't say that I'd be too inspired to head out today.  I shall be on my MIC Training this coming week with Plas Y Brenin, fingers crossed for slightly better weather!