Get in touch for Winter Courses 2011-12

As another summer passes by, it's time to look forward to this coming winter (not forgetting some autumnal rock climbing!), and with temperatures today on the summit of Ben Nevis just above freezing, it won't be long until the first snows arrive.  The past two winters have been fantastic, with some great early season conditions, so fingers crossed for a third.

Please do get in touch at applegateken@gmail.com or 07799 863068 if you are interested in developing your experience in the winter mountains this coming season.  I am based in Fort William throughout the year.
 
Prices per day start from: £160 for 1 person, £180 for 2 people, £200 for 3 people.

Very wintery up high: North Gully, Ben Nevis

For the second and final day, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary, we headed back up Ben Nevis, to tackle something a little more technical than yesterday and to have a look at the ropework and management involved with pitched climbing.  What started off as a dryish day, soon took a turn for the worse during the walk up to the CIC Hut, but whilst we were being rained on, the crags higher up were being coated by another fresh dusting of snow.

Fresh snow falling on the way up to Creag Coire Na Ciste

It was very quiet on the approach, although we did pass an optimistic adventurer with his skis strapped to his back!  We made for 'North Gully II' on Creag Coire Na Ciste, which is a great little route, with an interesting first pitch containing a step of steeper ice, before easing off, and passing through some quite dramatic scenery.  With spindrift pouring down, at times some heavy snow fall, rime building on the higher rocks and with fresh south westerly winds transporting snow onto the leeward slopes, creating pockets of fresh windslab, it felt as though we were back in the depths of winter.

Just above the crux on North Gully

The three did well on the three pitches of climbing, and we had just enough time to fulfil their ambition, to reach the summit of Ben Nevis.  The Red Burn bumslide is now riddled with holes, and is nowhere near as fun as last week.  Other teams out on Good Friday Climb, which was reported to be in good condition, Smith's Route, Central Gully Right Hand (which is said to be thin and the left hand line is no longer in), another team in North Gully and Green Gully is still apparently still in good shape.  Monday will be very wintery on the mountain, but again, temperatures are set to rise significantly during Tues and Wed, before cooling down again. These freeze/thaw conditions could well help regenerate the ice...  The fat lady hasn't sung just yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

A nice wintery surprise: Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Fresh snow this morning

Following a very mild Friday, with high winds, heavy rain and temperatures on the summit of Ben Nevis hitting 7 °C, I was a little unsure as to how wintery it would be for a two day Winter Mountaineering Course, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary. Fortune, it seemed, was to be on my side! Once the strong winds died, the temperatures dropped and the rain ceased, which all happened at once, at about 6am, it had left behind a reasonable cover of fresh snow down to about 700m. 

Final snow ridge of Ledge Route

Wes, Jamie and Gary had all climbed a number of grade 1 gullies, in the Lake District, and had plenty of experience summer hill walking and scrambling, but were after something a little more adventurous, and also were very interested in learning the rope work required to protect tricky steps both in ascent and descent.  My decision to head for 'Ledge Route II' was confirmed as we approached Coire Na Ciste, and saw that the fresh snow had transformed a previously quite bare Ledge Route back to its full winter glory.  Quick progress was made up this classic route, stopping occasionally to focus on various rope techniques, before making the summit of Carn Dearg, where there was at least 4 inches of fresh snow, and it was certainly very wintery up there.  We headed round to No. 4 Gully, and had a look at stacked abseiling to enter the gully.  On regaining the base of Coire Na Ciste, the clouds lifted and it was clear that a lot of the freshly fallen snow had melted, leaving Ledge Route quite black again.  The flatter sections will still be snow covered, but the steeper section will be back to bare rock.

Coire Na Ciste this afternoon

It was a very quiet day on Ben Nevis, with a couple of teams heading up into Observatory Gully and a couple of others on Ledge Route.  The ice that was on Good Eve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall is starting to look at bit thin, as did Hadrian's Wall Direct, which is riddled with large holes.  I'm sure Comb Gully Buttress will still be fine, as will Comb and Green Gully and some of the gullys on Creag Coire Na Ciste.  Freezing levels are due to be at 900m tomorrow, so it could be another good day.

Great ice on Comb Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

The initial icefall

Given that the forecast for today was light rain, I thought it would be worth heading up high, to find some late season ice on Ben Nevis. My better half, Han, and I have not really had much opportunity to climb together this winter, as she has been very focused on working towards her Winter ML Assessment, which I'm pleased to say she sailed through, so we thought it would be great to swing leads, and decided to seek out 'Comb Gully Buttress IV,4', just to the left of 'Comb Gully IV,4'. Seeking the buttress was easier said than done, as we were immersed in a thick pea souper upon gaining Coire Na Ciste. I have looked across at Comb Gully Buttress a couple of times in the past and been drawn to the route by an impressive icefall at the base, which overlooks the entrance to 'No.2 Gully'. I wasn't to be disappointed today, the icefall whilst only 6m or so high, was steep and sustained, and good fun! Grade IV,4, I think not!

Han then took over the lead, across the intermediate snow field, and then up the final pitch, which proved to be another excellent pitch of ice, with a couple of steep steps, which Han did very well to lead. Definitely quite stiff for IV,4, more like IV,5. Looking through the various guidebooks that exist, the true line of Comb Gully Buttress is slightly ambiguous, but whatever we did climb, it was a quality line, with some great ice, and is highly recommended!

Han setting off on Pitch 3

The bum slide down the Red Burn is the best it has been all season, and gives you 2 minutes of continuous slide, a relaxing way to descend the mountain! That may well have been my last day of personal climbing this winter, but only time will tell...

Due to the thick cloud that shrouded the mountain today, it was very hard to see anything, but 'Comb Gully' is still in great conditions, and 'The Comb - Left Flank' looked to be complete. The weekend still looks good for winter climbing.

Is that it for winter? Rock climbing in Glen Nevis

I'm not writing winter off just yet, and with freezing levels below the summit of Ben Nevis tomorrow, it does look like the ice may hold out a little longer, but with a low pressure system tracking it's way across the British Isle on Tuesday night, I thought that I would make the most of the current dry and mild conditions closer to sea level, or more specifically, in Glen Nevis.

Alex leading Tonis on Sheep Flank Wall

Rain was threatening as Alex and I drove into Glen Nevis, but we thought that we would just press on, and fortunately, the rain didn't really amount to anything.  First up, was a route that I had tried a few years ago, the steep fault of 'Kraut E1 5b' on After Crag.  I had had to rest on the rope last time I had tried the route, so with a bit more of a tactical approach this time, i.e. shake-out before the crux, I climbed the route without too much of a problem.  It was steep, and an enjoyable awakening to this season of rock climbing.  We then wandered over to Sheep Fank Wall, which having had a number of trees felled around it's base, now sported clean, dry rock, and some enjoyable shorter routes.  I then led 'Tonis HVS 5a' and 'Brown Slab E1 5b', the latter of which can be found the the late Ed Grindley's 'Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis', both of which were quite technical and a little bold at their respective cruxes.

So, a good start to this season's rock climbing, finger's crossed that the rain holds off tomorrow.  I was out working in on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe yesterday, and made an ascent of Broad Gully, which was still complete along with Forked Gully and North Gully, and there is still a reasonable amount of snow up in the coire, and certainly the coires of Bidian Nan Bian are still firmly gripping on to their winter coats.  Progress up there will be quite tough though, as there are are no footsteps to follow!  Still plenty of ice to climb on Ben Nevis, including quite a bit of ice around No. 2 Gully Buttress area (The White Line, Expert's Choice etc.) and check Scott's Blog for details on the conditions in Observatory Gully.

Just hanging on in there: No. 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Day four out with the three from Sheffield.  With a good forecast, and not many other options, heading up high on Ben Nevis seemed to be the sensible choice, and 'No. 3 Gully Buttress III' high in Coire Na Ciste the most appropriate route.  The great thing about the route is that every pitch is different, and the line makes it's way through some very impressive scenery.  There is also scope for much variation, allowing additional difficulties to be included, depending on conditions.

Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall

As we entered a deserted Coire Na Ciste, we had great views over towards Goodeve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall, and it looks as though the first couple of pitches of 'The White Line III' are still holding on in there, and could be used to gain 'Raeburn's Easy Route II'.  'The Gutter III,4' and 'Beam Me Up Scotty III' also look just about complete, so a combination of the lower pitches of 'Glover's Chimney III,4' and then moving onto 'The Gutter' may also provide a good day out.  The lower pitches of our route, No. 3 Gully Buttress, could also be clearly seen, and looked to be in good conditions, and having climbed the route earlier this season, during another thaw, I was confident that there would be enough snow and ice to complete the route.  I chose to head directly up the first pitch, taking in a nice section of steeper (and very hard) ice, which the others all enjoyed, before moving across the big traverse, underneath 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5', which is complete, but dripping wet, and no doubt quite unstable.  Above the traverse, I opted for a rocky pitch, which heads straight up to the plateau.  There is enough ice on this pitch, but again, its very hard in places, shatters quite easily, and required care to climb.

The big traverse on No. 3 Gully Buttress

Topping out on a cloud free Ben Nevis

We were treated to blue skies and sunshine (a surprisingly reoccurring theme this winter!) on topping out, and enjoyed the quickest way off the mountain, the Red Burn bum slide, which has developed a few gaping holes. Another great day on Ben Nevis! We only saw two other teams climbing, both on 'Green Gully IV,4'. which is holding on well, and Mike Pescod was out on 'Comb Gully IV,3' and reported good ice.  Forecast is for cooler temperatures, so the ice that's still there should last a bit longer...  It's not over yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

On the sharp end: The Runnel, Cairngorms

As Ben was moaning about blisters (they are pretty bad really, and he didn't moan too much), and with a better forecast for the east, I decided that a trip to The Cairngorms would be more beneficial today.  The walk into Coire an t'Sneachda was quite easy going, and despite the thaw, the snow underfoot wasn't giving way too easily.  We were the second team into the coire, with Fi Chappell from Talisman Mountaineering and Martin Moran with their clients in hot pursuit.  Our plan was to climb 'The Runnel II', which is normally a very popular route, but fortunately, the others had different objectives, enabling us to climb the route at our pace, without sending snow and ice down onto teams below. 

John, leading his first winter climb

 

On the final icy pitch

Given the good protection available on the route, along with the soft snow with steps already in place, John was able to jump onto the sharp end, with me soloing alongside, offering advice and tips as he steadily and comfortably moved up his first winter lead.  Despite the good cracks which litter the side walls of the climb, quite a few blocks were loose, and we were able to assess and avoid these.  John made good progress, and led the first three pitches smoothly, and was able to organise Phil and Ben at each belay efficiently.  The final pitch, a narrow, icey chimney was obviously the crux of the route, so in order to ensure his safety, I soloed up, placing key gear and runners for John to clip into as he tackled his first bit of steeper and harder ice.  The cracks easily consumed most the rack, allowing for a well protected pitch, which John climbed with no problem at all, he then cruised the upper snow slope which provided good axe and foot placements.  Well done on your first winter lead!  We were treated to some fantastic views over to Ben Macdui and Ben Mheadhoin in the afternoon, and descended alongside a busy Coire Cas.

Clear views out to Ben Mheadhoin

Coire an t'Sneachda

It was a quiet day in the coire, with other teams on 'Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV,4', which looked great, 'Crotched Gully I/II', and Martin mentioned heading over to climb 'Afterthought Arete III'.

It turned out alright: Dorsal Arete, Glencoe

South Buttress of Stob Coire Nan Lochan
 

Another day out with Phil, Ben and John.  As we pulled up in Glencoe this morning, there was low cloud and it was drizzling, without any signs of letting up.  Fortunately for us, the forecast of a high pressure moving in as the day progress materialised, and from about 11am onwards, we were treated to blue skies and sunshine, along with some great views out towards the Aonach Eagach and beyond.

This was my first time climbing 'Dorsal Arete II', on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe, and given the traffic that the route had received yesterday, I was fearing the worst, given the current winter conditions, but we lucked out, and were the first of only two teams today.  The route is quite straight forward, starting on snow slopes just to the right of Broad Gully, and with good conditions on the route for the most part, we made good progress up the easier section of the route, before heading up a slightly bare chimney, and gaining the exciting finale, the exposed rocky fin, which today didn't require an axe, but did require a bit of care due to the loose blocks.  I'm sure that the route must change each season due to rockfall, but today we didn't significantly add to the erosion of the route, and topped out on the snow free west shoulder of Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Another great day out!

Jenga blocks on Dorsal Arete, be careful what you pull on!

It was very quiet in Stob Coire Nan Lochan today, and the blackness of the buttresses will be the reason why.  Boomerang Gully and Broad Gully (descended by a team today) are complete and Forked Gully, North Gully and NC Gully still look complete, although SC Gully is missing large sections.  The top-outs of some of these gullies will be quite precarious given the steep and soggy cornices still present, and until temperatures drop, which will happen to an extent through the night, they are probably worth avoiding.

Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Faulty Plumbing on Fawlty Towers, Ben Nevis

A huge difference from Saturday!

With soaring temperatures, I thought that the ice on Fawlty Towers may just about be hanging on in there.  It was, just.  Today, I was out with my brother, Phil, and a couple of his friends from Sheffield, John and Ben.  Ben and my brother had kindly helped me out when getting ready for my Mountain Instructor Award Assessment back in October, and again, with my Mountain Instructor Certificate Assessment in the pipeline, the three of them were willing 'guinea pigs' once again.  I should point out that they're all very enthusiastic and keen to learn the ropes of winter climbing, so a win-win situation for all.

Carn Dearg to Castle Ridge

Fawlty Towers is normally a great grade III snow/ice climb, finishing low down on Tower Ridge, however today, it was looking a little bit lean, and with water dripping down all the buttresses of Ben Nevis that I could see (the cloud was low, so I couldn't see up into Coire Na Ciste or Observatory Gully), it was going to be a damp experience for all.  The first pitch usually involves a good snow-ice groove, however today, we had to take a line slightly to the right which involved a bit of rock climbing in order to gain the thinning ice above, which was good fun, and not without interest. The turf was still frozen in places, and what ice there was, was not bad at all, but care was needed not to dislodge the now unfrozen blocks.   The three climbed well and quickly, helped by their previous rock climbing experience, and it wasn't long until we gained the crest of Tower Ridge.  It did sound as though there was a team on Tower Ridge, but given the low cloud, it was impossible to be sure.  We descended Tower Ridge and the West Gully of Douglas Boulder, which all added to the adventure of the day. 

Looking up Fawlty Towers, taken by Phil Applegate

 
Conditions on the mountain are far from ideal, with a huge thaw currently in progress, and due to continue throughout the next few days.  With a high pressure system set to dominate as of tomorrow, our saving grace might just be the cooler night time temperatures.  Vanishing Gully, Italian Climb and the routes on the Douglas Boulder are all no longer climbable, reports from others suggested that the ice lines on Creag Coire Na Ciste are no longer viable either, but a team did climb No. 3 Gully Buttress.  I'd imagine that Green Gully and the ice lines high on the mountain are hanging on in there, but for how much longer I wouldn't like to say.

Déjà vu: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

It felt like only yesterday that I was last up on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, and therefore the UK.  In fact it was three whole days ago!  Today, I was working for Abacus Mountaineering, and out with Parminder who had at the last minute, having been cancelled on by his regular climbing partner, driven the 500 miles from Sheffield in order to get some ice climbed, and to hopefully learn a thing or two along the way.

As we walked up to the CIC Hut, it was apparent that there were already a few teams already established on Orion Direct, and with numerous teams gearing up at the foot of Observatory Gully, things were not looking great for getting onto our number one choice of route.  Fortunately, as we approached the teams, they all shot off up towards the East Gully of Tower Ridge, and with a couple of other teams disappearing up towards Hadrian's Wall, which looks fantastic, and Observatory Ridge, a gap opened up at the base of Orion Direct.  Parminder had already led Point 5 and Zero Gully, and coupled with being a keen rock climber, it was clear that he was going to make short work of the climbing on Orion Direct.  The thing that did take time was the waiting as teams progressed at very varying rates.  We topped out at 6:30pm, with still a number of teams still climbing various routes.  A long, but again, excellent day, and I certainly don't think Parminder minded the slightly later than planned finish.  I remember him mentioning 'good value for money' on the descent!

Conditions on the route were overall quite good, not too dissimilar to how they were on Wednesday, however, the crux pitch is starting to show signs of wear from the countless ice axe placements, and unless some melt/freeze takes place, the crucial patches of ice just beyond the traverse on the crux pitch will become quite insecure in the not too distant future.  One team started Observatory Ridge as we walked around the toe of the ridge, and seemed to be finding conditions on the ridge slow going, there seemed to still be a lot of unconsolidated snow on the crest.  Another team headed up Epsilon Chimney IV,4, from The Basin, which again looked excellent, and a good alternative to Orion Direct.  Astral Highway will still be in condition, as for the time being will the other ice lines high on the mountain; Point 5 Gully, Smiths Route, Indicator Wall, Observatory Buttress etc. but with warmer temperatures this week, things lower down will be deteriorating rapidly and care is required, particularly in the gullies as cornices start to collapse.

A Winter Mountain Leader in the making: Glen Feshie, Cairngorms

Views out to Glen Feshie and the Monaliadth Mountains

Over the course of this winter, my better half, Han, and I have had quite different agendas, which has lead to us spending very little time on the hill together. She's moments away from embarking on her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, whereas I've been out gaining experience in order to work towards my Mountain Instructor Certificate assessment, which has been predominantly winter mountaineering and climbing. We were due to go snow holing a couple of weeks ago, but a cold on Han's part saw an end to that idea, so finally we headed out to the hills east of Glen Feshie in the Cairngorms. An area popular for Winter Mountain Leader Assessments, due to it's potential for snow holing sites and for it's indistinct land features, ideal for testing navigation.

Sastrugi on Carn Ban Mor

 Snow was down to the valley base, enabling ski tourers to head off straight from the car park, whereas we were spending the day on foot. Glen Feshie is an amazing glen, and despite good access from Aviemore and Kingussie, on leaving the road suddenly a real sense of wilderness and remoteness is felt. The rolling nature of the hills also make the area a ski tourers' playground.

Drooping cornices on Carn Ban Mor

We headed up onto Carn Ban Mor, and quickly gained some incredible vistas up Glen Feshie and over towards the Monaliadth Mountains. From the summit, the western corries of Braeriach could be seen, with a sea of undulating snow lying inbetween. A navigator's dream or nightmare! After practising various navigational techniques such as pacing and staying on a bearing in white out conditions, we found one of the snow hole sites, one of the snow holes here was palatial. After lunching in one, we set off to find some more obscure navigational points, and in doing so, the clouds closed in, enabling Han to practise in true poor visibility. We finished back on Carn Ban Mor, and as we descended back into Glen Feshie, were greeted by moody sunshine and ominous looking clouds out to the west.


Han's well on track for her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, having put a lot of time and effort into getting ready, and I wish her all the best! Go for it!

The very white peak: North Ridge of Stob Ban

The final day of working for Hughes Mountaineering saw me heading into The Mamores, with Declan, Tom and Miriam to have a last mountaineering adventure with one real criteria for the day: to get back for the Ireland/Wales Six Nations rugby fixture at 5pm!  With snow forecasted and a shift in the wind direction, it made sense to stick to ridges, and with that in mind, opted to head up the North Ridge of Stob Ban.  Stob Ban translates as the white peak, and although the term refers to it's quartzite composition, it was certainly very white with the freshly deposited snow.

A snow covered North Ridge

The ridge has great character, rising at first quite sharply out of Glen Nevis, then easing off before tackling what at first seems to be an improbable buttress.  Once up close, the true nature of the difficulties become much clearer and easier than initial impressions might suggest.  A couple of rocky steps and some meandering lead to a spectacular snowy arete, leading the way towards the various false summits and finally the shattered quartzite peak of Stob Ban.  Windslab, which had been forming on the easterly facing slopes over the past couple of days, was also forming rapidly on the westerly facing slopes due to the new wind direction.  On the summit, we bumped into a team from the Ice Factor  who suggested that the trench they had created on their ascent (also our intended descent) would prove useful, however so much snow had fallen that their foot deep trench had already filled in.

Not a great photo but it shows the
amount of snow on the descent path

We were able to forge a path back down the mountain, through at times waist deep snow, trying to stick to the line of the path as closely as possible, which was very obscure at times.  We made it down for just gone 4pm, allowing enough times to make it back for the rugby, but  I bet they wished they hadn't have bothered given the final score!  A great and very different three days, all reflecting the diversity and challenges of Scottish winter mountaineering.

Wild Wild West: Gearr Aonach, Glencoe

Sheltered scrambling on the Zig Zags

If the winds in Glencoe had been anything close to those in Fort William during the early hours of today, I think today would have turned out quite different.  Instead, David, Jackie and I enjoyed a relatively pleasant day in Glencoe.  Today I was working for Hughes Mountaineering, along with Campbell, Andy and John.

As we pulled up in Glencoe, I don't think anyone anticipated on staying out as long as we eventually did, but soon after we had left that car, the weather cleared and even showed some blue skies!  The winds were still quite fresh, and with strong gusts forecasted, staying low was essential.  David and Jackie had quite a bit of experience both at home (Ireland) and abroad, and were keen to experience an adventurous walking day, but were fully aware that the weather could easily curtail plans.  Other members of their party were heading up to climb on Far Eastern Buttress on the East Face of Aonach Dubh, so I chose to head up the Zig Zags, onto Gearr Aonach then traverse into Coire Nan Lochan.  As we tucked ourselves behind the northern buttress of Gearr Aonach, the weather eased, and along with clear views, made for a very enjoyable ascent of the Zig Zags.  Crampons were definitely not required for the scramble, as most the ledges were just covered in soft, saturated graupel. Once on Gearr Aonach, we battled a few squalls, but again, in between the squalls, we had great views across to the Aonach Eagach and to the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  We could also make out the various teams climbing on Far Eastern Buttress.

After being battered by the wind a few times, we decided to traverse into Coire Nan Lochan and make our way down to the car.  Overall, it had been a great day and we'd lasted a good 7 hours.

Just before one of the squalls on Gearr Aonach

Seconds later!

Stob Coire nan Lochan, laden with snow

Far Eastern Buttress, Aonach Dubh

In the clouds: Green Gully, Ben Nevis

Tower Ridge and No. 2 Gully area this morning

A second day working for West Coast Mountain Guides, with Ashley and Dimitri, saw us back up Ben Nevis.  The freezing level had dropped though the night, and it felt markedly cooler this morning, even down at sea level.  It's the first time in a while that the freezing levels have really dropped, which was certainly long overdue.  Ashley and Dimitri found yesterday's climb adventurous, but quite straight forward, and so wanted something slightly more challenging today.  We headed back up to Coire Na Ciste, an hour ahead of yesterday, to find the mountain much quieter.  There were only 4 teams gearing up beneath Trident Buttresses, two of whom were heading up to Glover's Chimney, one to have a look at Thompson's Route and one to head up Number 3 Gully Buttress.  The Cascade up by No. 2 Gully is looking good, as is quite a bit of the ice in that area. Green Gully did have a team on it already, they must have had an early start as they were at least half way up the route at 9am.

Dimitri and Ashley at a belay

Most of the climbing in Green Gully at the moment is at grade III, with a couple of steps of IV, and the snow and ice was in great condition, particularly on the crux pitch and on the direct finish.  Both Ashley and Dimitri were suitably challenged today, and did well for their third Scottish winter climb.  On topping out, we were greeted by fresh winds building rime on the exposed rock, which is certainly very promising.  The snow had really firmed up down to about 800m, and with winter looking to return with a vengeance this week, climbing conditions will improve in the long term.

Descending the Red Burn in the clouds.

Busy on the Ben: Number 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Following some quiet days on Ben Nevis, today was a stark contrast!  Understandably, as it is one of the few mountains still managing to hang onto it's winter coat.  There was a very steady stream flowing up hill alongside the Allt a'Mhuilinn today, comprising of teams of climbers, all with similar objectives in mind.  I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides today and was out with Ashley and Dimitri.  They had both climbed Tower Ridge a couple of weeks ago, and had found it to be at the edge of their comfort zones, so were looking to climb something of similar technical difficulty but perhaps without the length of Tower Ridge.

Ashley and Dimitri on the first belay

The gearing up spot in Coire na Ciste, beneath the Trident Buttresses resembled something from a school playground, with numerous climbing 'gangs' in varying stages of readiness.  Whilst gearing up, I noticed that Number 3 Gully Buttress had a team leaving the first pitch and with no one else heading that way, decided to go for it.  Fortunate really as it had been my number one choice from the outset.  Conditions on the route were overall very good.  The snow was firm enough, and the ice was, for the majority of the route, in good shape.  I was keen not to simply 'guide' Ashley and Dimitri, so we looked at belays, tactics, leader placed protection, protecting traverses and in-situ gear amongst much else.  The ice higher up on the route was quite thin, and care was needed not to destroy the remaining patches!

Views across Coire na Ciste

A thin, but climbable Two Step Corner

A thin, and climbed Quickstep

We pretty much had the route to ourselves, as we never really did catch up to the team ahead. Another great day to be out.   Both 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5' were complete, just, and there was a brave team on Quickstep, but I didn't quite see them negotiate a pencil of ice barely the width of my waist!  Other teams on Green Gully, The White Line, Banshee, Central Gully & RH of Creag Coire Na Ciste, Central Gully of The Trident Buttresses, Comb Gully amongst many others and reports of numerous teams on Point 5 Gully.  Freezing levels didn't really drop through the night as forecasted.

Quiet in Observatory Gully: Observatory Buttress, Ben Nevis

With the freezing level forecasted to be high for today, James and I decided to go high on Ben Nevis, with the intention of climbing the ice line of 'Observatory Buttress V,4'.  We walked in with blue skies and sunshine, which stayed with us for most of the day, although the clouds did occasionally roll in, eerily down Observatory Gully and obscure otherwise very clear views of Tower Ridge.  It was quiet on this side of the mountain, with two teams on Hadrian's Wall and two on Point 5 Gully.  A couple of other teams passed beneath us later on, Mike and his client who climbed 'Smith's Route V,5', which has only really just come into conditions, and there were footsteps leading up to a well formed 'Tower Scoop III'.

Coire Na Ciste today

 

Observatory Gully today

James starting up pitch 1, with Hadrian's Wall in the background.

The route was clearly in good condition, judging by the fat white streak on an otherwise blackening buttress.  James led the first pitch, which was a straight forward icy groove, to the first snowy bay.  I took over the lead and led through the various bulges and steps of ice, before climbing through the short but steep crux.   The ice so far had been nothing short of excellent, taking first time axe placements and good ice screws where required.  James led on through to reach the large terrace, from where an escape into Observatory Gully is possible.  I was keen to have a go at the 'Direct Finish V,5', which is the recommended finish for a number of the other climbs which finish at the terrace, so a big traverse put us at the base of a well formed icy groove.  James then led the groove well, and after 50m, belayed over towards 'Left Edge V,5'.  From here, it was obvious where the Direct Finish went, but it was also clear that the ice was quite thin, so that axes were going to have to be carefully placed, and that the climbing would link patches of thicker ice and neve on the ledges and less steep sections.  After three tied off ice screws, I was able to get a sinker, before committing to a series of more technical moves, and finally appreciated the security of a well hammered No. 10 nut!  The climbing was never desperate, in fact, it was good fun, but quite serious at the same time.  We topped out to an amazing cloud inversion, with only the tops of Carn Dearg, Trident Buttress and the summit popping out, and both agreed that it had been a fantastic route!

Me on the crux pitch.  It was steeper than it looks!

The temperature didn't rise as much as forecasted, with the freezing level at about 1100-1200m through the day.  Tomorrow's forecast is for milder conditions and strong south westerly gusts, so it would be worth sticking to the thicker ice routes.

Views of Tower Ridge

Hadrian's Wall Direct, Sickle and Point 5 Gully

 

Great out east: Savage Slit, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms

Early start this morning!  Two teams, made up of Scott and James, and Alex and I headed over to the Cairngorms this morning, as Alex and James had been over yesterday, and reported good and improving conditions in Coire an Lochain.  Clouds were low on the approach, and we entered a very quiet coire at 8:30am, geared up and headed up to climb 'Savage Slit V,6', the classic of the coire.  Another team were just starting out on 'Fall Out Corner IV,7' but I think backed off later.  Conditions on Savage Slit looked fantastic, with good riming, ledges holding solid neve, and the cracks mostly clear of ice.

Me starting up pitch 1 of Savage Slit

Alex on the short, sharp pitch 2

I linked the first two pitches, climbing a great 25m pitch up to the first in-situ belay.  The climbing was quite sustained and technical, but never particularly difficult, and reasonably well protected.  The crux today was the final pull onto the chockstone belay, where footholds become slightly less positive.  Alex then led through, climbing the following short pitch to the next in-situ belay.  The climbing on this pitch involved some good old thrutching and chimneying tactics, with plenty of good gear throughout.  I then led the final pitch, which started off by finishing up the 'slit', which again sported some interesting climbing, before finishing up easier snow to the plateau.  The guidebook does mention abseiling from the second in-situ belay on double 60m ropes, however that would miss out the third pitch and sense of true completion.  The third pitch is also highly recommended!

Looking back at the buttresses of Coire an Lochain

Overall, conditions were fantastic (possibly near perfect for Savage Slit?), and will further improve for tomorrow.  It was very quiet in Coire an Lochain today, with only teams on Sidewinder, Hooker's Corner and Ewen Buttress.  Scott and James climbed The 'Lamp V,6' over in Coire an T-Sneachda and reported conditions to be good, but not as good as Coire an Lochain.  Tomorrow should again offer some fantastic winter conditions in the Cairngorms.  Back here, both Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor are looking far more wintery, there'll be plenty to go at again!

Quick glimpse of Ben Nevis en route home