Book Review: Skye Scrambles by Noel Williams

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

The Isle of Skye unquestionably boasts some of the finest scrambling and climbing opportunities in the UK, and for many mountaineers, the traverse of the spectacular Cuillin Ridge, arcing 12km and providing some of the most dramatic and challenging mountainous terrain in the UK is a life long ambition.  However, it’s not just the Cuillin Ridge that draws mountaineers and walkers, as numerous outings, of high quality, can be found across the island, which is quite useful, given the notoriously changeable Hebridean weather.

The eagerly awaited second edition of Skye Scrambles, published by the SMC is finally in the shops, and just a brief flick through the pages, was enough to convince me that this guidebook is an absolute must for anyone with a mountaineering interest in the area.  The most striking feature of this guidebook must be the hand drawn topos, as for the first time that I’m aware of, the drawings are now in full colour, showing intricate detail through careful hill-shading, providing information that even photos can not always offer.  Whilst predominantly a scrambling guidebook, a healthy selection of easier climbs and walks have also been included, giving the reader plenty of options in almost any weather condition, and as with all SMC guidebooks, inspiring chapters on geology, history and environment are included, all of which can easily enhance one’s experience of mountaineering on Skye.

The second edition of Skye Scrambles fell into my hands only a couple of days before a planned working visit to Skye, provided me with the ideal opportunity to put the guidebook through it’s paces.  During four days on Skye, I covered the following: West Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr Nan Gillean, Direct Route up the East Ridge and down King’s Cave Chimney of Am Basteir, and the majority of the Ridge Traverse, starting at Gars-bheinn and descending after Sgùrr a’ Mhadaidh, and can honestly say that this new guidebook helped me to no end, particularly the chapter that describes the Cuillin Ridge Traverse, which includes clear yet simple descriptions and perhaps more useful, well annotated and simplified maps.  If the rest of the guidebook is this useable, which I’m absolutely certain it is, then a new benchmark for scrambling guidebooks has been set.

So, if you want help fathoming out the most complex and spectacular mountain range in the UK, you know what to do.

Four days on Skye, including a Cuillin Ridge Traverse

The northern Munros of the Black Cuillin

It's certainly been a busy few weeks, hence the lack of postings here, but my feet have finally touched the ground, so to speak, for a short while at least!  Friday the 17th June saw an early start with a drive to the 'Misty Isle', or Skye as it's better known as, which in my mind, is one of the finest mountaineering playgrounds in the UK (see my book review on the new Skye Scrambles Guidebook, published by the SMC), and to meet up with Steve and shadow Mike along with his clients; Nick, Noel, Bob and Peter, with the intention of completing the three northern most Munros on the Black Cuillin; Sgurr Nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach Na Frithe.  The circuit is very achievable in a day, and incorporates plenty of excitement, from the airy scramble along and back down the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean and a tricky down climb from the summit of Am Basteir, imaginatively called 'The Bad Step', to a spectacular abseil down the Knight's Cave Chimney, in between the summit of Am Basteir and Am Basteir's Tooth.  From here, it was a straight forward walk to the summit of the third Munro, Bruach Na Frithe, before descending back down Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather took a turn for the worse as the day progressed, however despite the rain, the group had a great day.

Heading up the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Heading to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Saturday saw me working with Mike for Abacus Mountaineering and heading out with Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan for a warm up day up Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean, before a full Cuillin Ridge Traverse starting on Sunday.  In profile, Pinnacle Ridge, which we saw the previous day, looks quite spectacular and imposing, and whilst the journey is nothing short of spectacular, the actual route over the pinnacles is far less intimidating than first appearances may suggest.   The highlight must be the airy abseil from the third pinnacle, onto quite a narrow ledge, before down climbing to a much larger ledge below.  The ascent of the Knight's Peak involved some fantastic scrambling, before easing off leading up to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean.  From the summit, we heading back down the West Ridge and back down to Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather held out nicely, and gave the team a taste of what was to follow over the next couple of days.

Loch Scavaig and Loch Coruisk

Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan

The team had opted to start the traverse by taking the boat from Elgol, across Loch Scavaig to the foot of Gars Bheinn, which I now think is possibly the best way to start the traverse due to not having to back track at all, never mind the adventurous feel to it all!  We made good progress up onto the ridge, and found ourselves at Sgurr Dubh Mor in good time.  Both Mike and I took our teams up the King's Chimney on Sgurr MhicConnich, before moving swiftly up An Stac and up and over the Inaccessible Pinnacle, where the weather took a slight dip, fortunately the difficulties for the day were done with. That evening we made it passed the Three Teeth of Sgurr Thormaid for a short bivi.  The following morning was another early start, however following the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Greadaidh and technical climbing of Sgurr a'Mhadiadh, I descended from the ridge at Bealach na Glaic Moire, with Bryan who was finding that his knees were giving him trouble.  It must have been a hard decision for him to make, and made all the more difficult by watching the rest of the team head off up Bidein Druim Nan Ramh.   Mike went on to complete the ridge with Anthony, Paul and James, despite less than ideal conditions, so a huge well done to them!

Descending the Inn Pinn

Tacking the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh

That was my first substantial bit of work on Skye, and I'm not sure that guiding in the mountains gets much better, so fingers crossed it won't be long until I'm back on Skye! (All photos courtesy of Steve Holmes).

Book Review: Winter Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glen Coe by Mike Pescod

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

As another great season of winter climbing draws to a close, perhaps a little sooner than hoped, I can honestly say that there has been one item that has made my winter climbing season that bit easier this year.  That is the seventh edition of Winter Climbs – Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, published by Cicerone.  The baton for writing this guidebook, which started off in Ian Clough’s hands, and passed through Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber, landed in the steady hands of local Mountain Guide, Mike Pescod, and it’s quite clear, from initial impressions, that the substantial task of compiling a new guide for the premier winter climbing area in the UK, has been done very well.

The cover shot of Dave Macleod on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, Orion Direct, gives the impression that the route is far steeper than it actually is.  Whilst the route and climber seem to be the ideal choice, the angle could do with adjusting.  I’d go so far as to say that I personally prefer the cover photo on the previous addition, but, as with all books, it is the all important content that counts, and the introductory chapter, which covers topics including: Climbing Conditions, Weather and Avalanches, Access and Rescue Facilities, is a must read, condensing years of experience into an easy to read and understand chapter, which any new comer to the area should get to grips with.  

The guidebook boasts over 900 climbs, a number of which are new routes since both the last edition and the SMC’s guidebooks, but one of the highlights of this edition must be the photo topos for almost all the crags, which are not only highly functional, but very inspiring too, and along with the various climbing shots and anecdotes, has ensured that the guidebook has lived on the coffee table, when not in the rucksack, throughout the winter.  

Lastly, the guidebook bridges an ever growing gap between the SMC publications, and certainly for those who tend towards winter climbing on the west coast of Scotland, this guidebook is a must.

Book Review: Rockfax Climbing Guide to El Chorro, Spain

Below is a book review I had published in Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer in 2010.

Being predominantly a Scotland based climber, the series of Rockfax Guidebooks hadn’t crossed my path frequently, however last year, once the autumnal rains had set in, and the prospect of dry rock seemed a while away, I looked to get away, and so, with the venue of El Chorro chosen, all I could do was to wait until Rockfax printed their new guidebook to the area. 

Fortunately over the festive period, the guidebook landed on my doormat, and first impressions were quickly established.  I think I speak for a large number of El Chorro guidebook users, in that I really felt that one of the biggest flaws is the front cover.  The old cliché goes ‘you shouldn’t judge a book by it’s cover’, and whilst I’m sure the climber in question is overjoyed that she’s managed to gain pole position within the guidebook, it just misses the essence of what’s available in and around the magnificent gorge of El Chorro.

Despite that, and moving on to the all important content and layout, the guidebook reflects the hard labour, which Mark Glaister has poured into this publication.  The tried and tested layout of Rockfax, works well, providing just enough information about each route to still give a healthy degree of adventure.  The photo topos when combined with clear and simple maps, used throughout, enabled ease of route (and sector) finding, particularly when trying to navigate around the extensive Frontales crags.  A number of outlying crags are also detailed in the guidebook, allowing climbers the welcome change of scenery.

It must be noted that the greatest challenge found within the guidebook, for some, may well not be a redpoint attempt on Orujo, weighing in at a hefty 9a+ at Archidona, but in finding the 20 bulls, hidden, sometimes with ridiculous obscurity throughout the guidebook, something for those rare wet days…

If heading out for some winter sun, Rockfax’s El Chorro Guidebook should be high on any climber’s list, and having met plenty of local and international climbers out there, all using this guidebook, it would seem that this guidebook has become the number one choice.