On the sharp end: The Runnel, Cairngorms

As Ben was moaning about blisters (they are pretty bad really, and he didn't moan too much), and with a better forecast for the east, I decided that a trip to The Cairngorms would be more beneficial today.  The walk into Coire an t'Sneachda was quite easy going, and despite the thaw, the snow underfoot wasn't giving way too easily.  We were the second team into the coire, with Fi Chappell from Talisman Mountaineering and Martin Moran with their clients in hot pursuit.  Our plan was to climb 'The Runnel II', which is normally a very popular route, but fortunately, the others had different objectives, enabling us to climb the route at our pace, without sending snow and ice down onto teams below. 

John, leading his first winter climb

 

On the final icy pitch

Given the good protection available on the route, along with the soft snow with steps already in place, John was able to jump onto the sharp end, with me soloing alongside, offering advice and tips as he steadily and comfortably moved up his first winter lead.  Despite the good cracks which litter the side walls of the climb, quite a few blocks were loose, and we were able to assess and avoid these.  John made good progress, and led the first three pitches smoothly, and was able to organise Phil and Ben at each belay efficiently.  The final pitch, a narrow, icey chimney was obviously the crux of the route, so in order to ensure his safety, I soloed up, placing key gear and runners for John to clip into as he tackled his first bit of steeper and harder ice.  The cracks easily consumed most the rack, allowing for a well protected pitch, which John climbed with no problem at all, he then cruised the upper snow slope which provided good axe and foot placements.  Well done on your first winter lead!  We were treated to some fantastic views over to Ben Macdui and Ben Mheadhoin in the afternoon, and descended alongside a busy Coire Cas.

Clear views out to Ben Mheadhoin

Coire an t'Sneachda

It was a quiet day in the coire, with other teams on 'Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV,4', which looked great, 'Crotched Gully I/II', and Martin mentioned heading over to climb 'Afterthought Arete III'.