Coached Scrambling on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Returning clients are great!  Of course I would say that, as it brings back business, but more to the point, it allows both a solid relationship to develop and great opportunities for progression and that's just what the theme of today was all about.  Wes, Kev, both of whom I had guided up Tower Ridge back in July, came back for more mountaineering, and this time had brought Chris along too.  Tower Ridge is unquestionably one of the finest and challenging scrambles in the UK and to step it up from there (without visiting Skye) would enter the realms of rock climbing (North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis spring to mind), for which better weather than what was forecasted would be required.  So, in order to challenge the three, and in particular Wes, as he had a bit more experience under his belt, I suggested that a day of coached scrambling, with Wes on the sharp end, leading Kev and Chris, on the Glencoe classic, Curved Ridge would make the most of their day.

We set off from the car, with steady drizzle and low cloud, as I explained the various landmarks and directions, which make finding Curved Ridge in the low cloud far easier and picked our way to the base of the ridge.  Before setting off, we talked through the ideal scrambling rack and the principles of scrambling with a rope, i.e. being safe enough rather than too safe in order to keep things moving, and the three components of scrambling:

1) flow -keeping things moving, being dynamic with decision making and planning ahead
2) control -using the rope efficiently and effectively and ensuring that both seconds are always protected
3) command -directing both seconds, at times independently

Chris and Kev enjoying the scrambling, with Rannoch Wall behind

Wes took all of this on-board and with some en-route coaching, brought Kev and Chris up safely and quickly to reach the top of Easy Gully and the base of Crowberry Tower for lunch.  Wes has also started his quest to complete all 283 Munros within 10 years, so rather than hang about, we made our way up the final broken ground to the summit of Stob Dearg, and quickly fired our way along the broad ridge of Buachaille Etive Mòr to the second Munro, Sgor na Bròige.  Munro no. 6 in the bag! The weather had improved vastly throughout the day, allowing fantastic views down into Glen Etive and across to Buachaille Etive Beag.

At the top of Curved Ridge, with glimpses towards Rannoch Moor behind

Spectacular views up Glen Etive

Mountaineering on Ben Nevis: Tower Ridge & Ledge Route

Today I was out with Wes and Kevin, who were keen to tackle one of the finest mountaineering routes in the UK, Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.  Both had a fair bit of hillwalking and scrambling experience under their belts, but the majority of scrambling they had both done had tended to be in the Lake District and North Wales, so as the clouds swirled around the coires as we made our way up towards the CIC Hut, they were clearly in awe at the scale of the north face of Ben Nevis, and in particular that of Tower Ridge.

We made good progress up the ridge, and were fortunate for the clouds to lift and provide some impressive views out towards Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Beag and beyond.  I've said it many times before, but these spectacular views are very hard to get bored of!  We didn't hang around, and soon found ourselves at 'The Gap'.  On Saturday, a substantial block came away from Tower Gap (details here), which has led to the down climb into the gap being slightly trickier than before, and more importantly has loosened up a few other surrounding blocks in the gap, and now requires greater care than before.  We did just that, and soon found ourselves emerging into the sunshine on the summit plateau.

Beyond the Gap

The gravity defying blocks on Ledge Route

As if scrambling 900m up was not enough, Wes and Kevin were keen to descend via Ledge Route, and in no time at all, we were back down at the CIC Hut.  All in all, it was another fantastic day to be out in the mountains.

Ben Nevis this afternoon

Book Review: Skye Scrambles by Noel Williams

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

The Isle of Skye unquestionably boasts some of the finest scrambling and climbing opportunities in the UK, and for many mountaineers, the traverse of the spectacular Cuillin Ridge, arcing 12km and providing some of the most dramatic and challenging mountainous terrain in the UK is a life long ambition.  However, it’s not just the Cuillin Ridge that draws mountaineers and walkers, as numerous outings, of high quality, can be found across the island, which is quite useful, given the notoriously changeable Hebridean weather.

The eagerly awaited second edition of Skye Scrambles, published by the SMC is finally in the shops, and just a brief flick through the pages, was enough to convince me that this guidebook is an absolute must for anyone with a mountaineering interest in the area.  The most striking feature of this guidebook must be the hand drawn topos, as for the first time that I’m aware of, the drawings are now in full colour, showing intricate detail through careful hill-shading, providing information that even photos can not always offer.  Whilst predominantly a scrambling guidebook, a healthy selection of easier climbs and walks have also been included, giving the reader plenty of options in almost any weather condition, and as with all SMC guidebooks, inspiring chapters on geology, history and environment are included, all of which can easily enhance one’s experience of mountaineering on Skye.

The second edition of Skye Scrambles fell into my hands only a couple of days before a planned working visit to Skye, provided me with the ideal opportunity to put the guidebook through it’s paces.  During four days on Skye, I covered the following: West Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr Nan Gillean, Direct Route up the East Ridge and down King’s Cave Chimney of Am Basteir, and the majority of the Ridge Traverse, starting at Gars-bheinn and descending after Sgùrr a’ Mhadaidh, and can honestly say that this new guidebook helped me to no end, particularly the chapter that describes the Cuillin Ridge Traverse, which includes clear yet simple descriptions and perhaps more useful, well annotated and simplified maps.  If the rest of the guidebook is this useable, which I’m absolutely certain it is, then a new benchmark for scrambling guidebooks has been set.

So, if you want help fathoming out the most complex and spectacular mountain range in the UK, you know what to do.

Four days on Skye, including a Cuillin Ridge Traverse

The northern Munros of the Black Cuillin

It's certainly been a busy few weeks, hence the lack of postings here, but my feet have finally touched the ground, so to speak, for a short while at least!  Friday the 17th June saw an early start with a drive to the 'Misty Isle', or Skye as it's better known as, which in my mind, is one of the finest mountaineering playgrounds in the UK (see my book review on the new Skye Scrambles Guidebook, published by the SMC), and to meet up with Steve and shadow Mike along with his clients; Nick, Noel, Bob and Peter, with the intention of completing the three northern most Munros on the Black Cuillin; Sgurr Nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach Na Frithe.  The circuit is very achievable in a day, and incorporates plenty of excitement, from the airy scramble along and back down the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean and a tricky down climb from the summit of Am Basteir, imaginatively called 'The Bad Step', to a spectacular abseil down the Knight's Cave Chimney, in between the summit of Am Basteir and Am Basteir's Tooth.  From here, it was a straight forward walk to the summit of the third Munro, Bruach Na Frithe, before descending back down Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather took a turn for the worse as the day progressed, however despite the rain, the group had a great day.

Heading up the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Heading to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Saturday saw me working with Mike for Abacus Mountaineering and heading out with Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan for a warm up day up Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean, before a full Cuillin Ridge Traverse starting on Sunday.  In profile, Pinnacle Ridge, which we saw the previous day, looks quite spectacular and imposing, and whilst the journey is nothing short of spectacular, the actual route over the pinnacles is far less intimidating than first appearances may suggest.   The highlight must be the airy abseil from the third pinnacle, onto quite a narrow ledge, before down climbing to a much larger ledge below.  The ascent of the Knight's Peak involved some fantastic scrambling, before easing off leading up to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean.  From the summit, we heading back down the West Ridge and back down to Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather held out nicely, and gave the team a taste of what was to follow over the next couple of days.

Loch Scavaig and Loch Coruisk

Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan

The team had opted to start the traverse by taking the boat from Elgol, across Loch Scavaig to the foot of Gars Bheinn, which I now think is possibly the best way to start the traverse due to not having to back track at all, never mind the adventurous feel to it all!  We made good progress up onto the ridge, and found ourselves at Sgurr Dubh Mor in good time.  Both Mike and I took our teams up the King's Chimney on Sgurr MhicConnich, before moving swiftly up An Stac and up and over the Inaccessible Pinnacle, where the weather took a slight dip, fortunately the difficulties for the day were done with. That evening we made it passed the Three Teeth of Sgurr Thormaid for a short bivi.  The following morning was another early start, however following the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Greadaidh and technical climbing of Sgurr a'Mhadiadh, I descended from the ridge at Bealach na Glaic Moire, with Bryan who was finding that his knees were giving him trouble.  It must have been a hard decision for him to make, and made all the more difficult by watching the rest of the team head off up Bidein Druim Nan Ramh.   Mike went on to complete the ridge with Anthony, Paul and James, despite less than ideal conditions, so a huge well done to them!

Descending the Inn Pinn

Tacking the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh

That was my first substantial bit of work on Skye, and I'm not sure that guiding in the mountains gets much better, so fingers crossed it won't be long until I'm back on Skye! (All photos courtesy of Steve Holmes).

Two rounds of the Inn Pinn, Black Cuillin, Skye

The Black Cuillin of Skye has to be one of the finest mountaineering playgrounds in the UK, if not the best, so I jumped at the opportunity to guide the most technical of all the Munros, The Inaccessible Pinnacle, or the Inn Pinn for short.  I was working for Martin Moran, and guiding Craig, Mike, Anona and Steve.  Mike and Steve had climbed a bit in the past, whereas for Craig and Anona it was their first real experience of climbing outdoors, what a fantastic place to start!

Mike and Steve surrounded by clouds on the final pitch

We started out from the BMC Hut at Glen Brittle, and made our way up the scree slopes of Sron Dearg and onto Sgurr Dearg.  The weather throughout the ascent was very changable, with strong gusts and rain coming through regularly.  As we approached the summit of Sgurr Dearg, the clouds rolled in, obscuring views in every direction.  Due to the low visibility, it was only when standing on Sgurr Dearg, that the incredible Inn Pinn could be seen, and for first timers, it is an exhilarating sight, as the knife blade of basalt, which is only meters thick at it's base rears up from the gabbro mountain.

Anona and Craigon the summit of the Inn Pinn

Mike and Steve opted to be guided first, so we roped up and made our way down the loose ground to the base of the East Ridge.  From here, it is a moderate rock climb to reach the summit, requiring two or three pitches, particularly when the rock is damp, which it was for Mike and Steve's ascent.  We soon gained the summit, before abseiling off the west face, which can be done in a 20m abseil off an in-situ steel cable.  With a quick turnaround, I was back up the Inn Pinn with Craig and Anona, both of whom, considering their limited climbing experiences, did very well, and as we reached the summit, the clouds lifted, giving us fantastic panoramic views of the surrounding area, which was impressive to say the least.

Anona abseiling off the Inn Pinn

Looking at the west face of the Inn Pinn,
with Sgurr Mhic Choinnich in the background

We then descended back down the way we had come, everyone immensely satisfied having reached the summit of the 'mountaineer's Munro'.

The knife blade of rock that is the Inn Pinn

Looking back to Sgurr Na Banachdich

A fine day on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Today I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides.  I was out with Bill and Mike who were keen to either climb Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis or Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.  With the weather not looking fantastic, the decision was made to head to Glencoe and climb the classic Curved Ridge.  As we pulled into the lay-by by the SMC's Lagangarbh Hut, it was steadily raining, so donning waterproofs, we headed up towards Coire Na Tulaich, before veering off eastwards and round towards Rannoch Wall and Curved Ridge.

Not long into the approach, the rain eased, and despite weather forecasts, failed to materialise for the remainder of the day.  The scrambling on Curved ridge is great, with good, continuous clean rock and plenty of opportunity to build quick belays, either by placing gear or by using one of the numerous spikes on the route.  As we drew level with the base of the impressive Rannoch Wall, we chatted briefly to a team, about to start up the classic VDiff, Agag's Groove.

We reached the top of Curved Ridge, and the summit of Stob Dearg (the first of the Buachaille Etive Mor summits) in good time, before making our way round to the top of Coire Na Tualaich, and descending via the screes and broken ground down into the coire.  Bill and Mike were also keen to learn a few key scrambling skills such as building quick yet safe belays, using both natural anchors such as spikes and threads, and with placed protection such as cams and nuts, so we ventured off the descent path to one of the many outcrops that scatter the coire.  On the final leg of our descent, we heard the distant rumble of thunder, and again the rain fell, hopefully after the team on Agag's Groove had topped out!

Bill and Mike on Curved Ridge, with Rannoch Wall on the left

Go high for winter: Gearr Aonach and Stob Coire Nan Lochan

It's been a busy week!  Through the week, I was working for The Outward Bound Trust, introducing the beautiful natural environment of Lochaber to 12 year olds from Kilmarnock, who were excited to say the least.  Today was a little more relaxed, working alongside Scott for Abacus Mountaineering.  The group today was a fairly competent group, on a long stag weekend up in the Highlands.  They had originally wanted to meet us at 10am at the Corran Ferry, probably allowing for alcohol induced recovery time, but Mike had managed to convince them otherwise, and we met at 9am, with everyone seemingly compos mentis!

Miles, the stag, and his band of merry men,
on the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan

We headed up a very summer-like 'Zig-Zags I' on Gearr Aonach, before making our way up the striking East Ridge of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  The ridge, which higher up was quite wintery with some firm neve, does present a couple of tricky steps of grade I, both up and down and is an interesting route onto the summit.  Throughout much of today, the skies were clear enough to get some clear views over to Creise and Buachaille Etive Mor to the west and Ardgour to the east.  On arrival at the summit, we were able to see multiple teams on 'Dorsal Arete II/III', but unfortunately, the rest of the buttresses were completely black and very quiet. Freezing levels felt higher than forecasted, at around 950m.  Rime was slowly buildin and small icicles hanging off the rock, so winter is definitely still in existence.

Multiple teams on Dorsal Arete

We descended down the west ridge, towards Aonach Dubh, before entering the coire of Stob Coire Nan Lochan, and it was quite obvious that on leaving the summit, the snow soon became much softer, and that we had dropped below the freezing level quite quickly.  Just before reaching the car park, we were hit by quite a sharp shower, which fell as snow above 600m, and seemed to stay, whether it does overnight, I wouldn't like to guess, it was a very light dusting.  So overall, conditions aren't anywhere near catastrophic, with plenty to do.  The easier gullies of Stob Coire Nan Lochan and surrounding peaks are complete, with some firm snow, but it will take more than perhaps what the next couple of days have to offer to bring the mixed routes back in.  All in all, a good day to be out on the hills, with a great crowd!

The rather black buttresses of Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe