Quiet in Observatory Gully: Observatory Buttress, Ben Nevis

With the freezing level forecasted to be high for today, James and I decided to go high on Ben Nevis, with the intention of climbing the ice line of 'Observatory Buttress V,4'.  We walked in with blue skies and sunshine, which stayed with us for most of the day, although the clouds did occasionally roll in, eerily down Observatory Gully and obscure otherwise very clear views of Tower Ridge.  It was quiet on this side of the mountain, with two teams on Hadrian's Wall and two on Point 5 Gully.  A couple of other teams passed beneath us later on, Mike and his client who climbed 'Smith's Route V,5', which has only really just come into conditions, and there were footsteps leading up to a well formed 'Tower Scoop III'.

Coire Na Ciste today

 

Observatory Gully today

James starting up pitch 1, with Hadrian's Wall in the background.

The route was clearly in good condition, judging by the fat white streak on an otherwise blackening buttress.  James led the first pitch, which was a straight forward icy groove, to the first snowy bay.  I took over the lead and led through the various bulges and steps of ice, before climbing through the short but steep crux.   The ice so far had been nothing short of excellent, taking first time axe placements and good ice screws where required.  James led on through to reach the large terrace, from where an escape into Observatory Gully is possible.  I was keen to have a go at the 'Direct Finish V,5', which is the recommended finish for a number of the other climbs which finish at the terrace, so a big traverse put us at the base of a well formed icy groove.  James then led the groove well, and after 50m, belayed over towards 'Left Edge V,5'.  From here, it was obvious where the Direct Finish went, but it was also clear that the ice was quite thin, so that axes were going to have to be carefully placed, and that the climbing would link patches of thicker ice and neve on the ledges and less steep sections.  After three tied off ice screws, I was able to get a sinker, before committing to a series of more technical moves, and finally appreciated the security of a well hammered No. 10 nut!  The climbing was never desperate, in fact, it was good fun, but quite serious at the same time.  We topped out to an amazing cloud inversion, with only the tops of Carn Dearg, Trident Buttress and the summit popping out, and both agreed that it had been a fantastic route!

Me on the crux pitch.  It was steeper than it looks!

The temperature didn't rise as much as forecasted, with the freezing level at about 1100-1200m through the day.  Tomorrow's forecast is for milder conditions and strong south westerly gusts, so it would be worth sticking to the thicker ice routes.

Views of Tower Ridge

Hadrian's Wall Direct, Sickle and Point 5 Gully