Get in touch for Winter Courses 2011-12

As another summer passes by, it's time to look forward to this coming winter (not forgetting some autumnal rock climbing!), and with temperatures today on the summit of Ben Nevis just above freezing, it won't be long until the first snows arrive.  The past two winters have been fantastic, with some great early season conditions, so fingers crossed for a third.

Please do get in touch at applegateken@gmail.com or 07799 863068 if you are interested in developing your experience in the winter mountains this coming season.  I am based in Fort William throughout the year.
 
Prices per day start from: £160 for 1 person, £180 for 2 people, £200 for 3 people.

Change of Scenery: DofE Silver Expeds with Eton College

Having had one day to turn around my kit after Skye, Max and I headed off on the 22nd June to North Wales for eight days, to work for A to Z Expeditions, who specialise in providing training and expeditions for the Duke of Edinburgh's Award, across the length and breadth of the UK. Keen to tackle their Silver practice and qualifying expeditions in one intense (in tents!) 8 day burst were Eton College, who were made up of 7 highly motivated and enthusiastic groups. Alongside Max, I was working with Simon Knight, Dave Fowler and Steve Ironside, a great bunch of fellow instructors, all of whom were keen to deliver high levels of challenge and adventure.

The determined 'Group 7' with Tom, Ludo, Jo, Ed, Oliver and Tom

Group 7 on the summit of Moel Siabod

The focus of the first expedition, the practice was to equip the groups with the necessary skills required to be self sufficient in the mountains, so included everything from use of stoves to basic and more advanced navigational techniques. During day 2, the weather was such as to necessitate the use of pacing and following bearings in poor viability, both skills of which the group I was with grasped quickly. I was particularly impressed with the determination and ability of 'Group 7' made up of two Toms, Jo, Ludo, Ed and Oliver. On day three of the practice expedition, we headed up the West Ridge of Moel Siabod, which provided some easy scrambling and great views in the adjacent cwm, which clearly showed signs of glaciation.

The following day allowed groups to relax, replenish energy supplies and reset all their kit before setting out again, for what was to be some fantastic three day qualifying expeditions. The groups I was supervising started at Llyn Gywnant, before tackling Snowdon via the back of Cwm Tregalan, talk about being thrown in the deep end! In order to meet our respective groups, Dave and I enjoyed a quick scramble over Crib Goch, and having eventually met all the groups, (who were in varying states of euphoria and appreciation for what they had just completed), we descended down the Parson's Nose, whilst the groups made their ways down either the Pyg Track or alongside the railway.

Group 1 successfully on the summit of Snowdon 1085m

Group 2, just as successful, on the summit of Snowdon

Day two saw my two groups crossing over from The Pass of Llanberis, via the spectacular Devil's Kitchen into the Ogwen Valley, before camping at the head of Llyn Cowlyd Reservoir, a great little site, nestled in amongst hillocks and small rocky outcrops. The final day saw both groups finishing their qualifying expeditions in good adventurous style, taking in the Carneddau before finally descending to Aber Falls and onto Abergwyngregyn. Throughout the three days, both groups showed nothing but determination and a thorough understanding of what it is to be self-sufficient in the mountains. Well done to all the Eton College groups who all rose to the many challenges, I look forward to working with them again next year!

Summer Mountain Leader Training: Lochaber

It's been a busy few days and following on from my climbing trip to the Cairngorms, I was straight into observing a 6 day Summer Mountain Leader Training Course, run by Mike Pescod of Abacus Mountaineering.  Although the training course isn't compulsory for those looking to become a Mountain Leader (you can apply for exemption), it is certainly highly recommended as it cover the syllabus set out by the MLTUK, following which a consolidation period will allow potential Mountain Leaders to practise the various techniques and skills before putting themselves forward for assessment.

Day 1 was spent focusing on introducing the role of a Mountain Leader and core navigation skills, and we headed up to the hills bound to the east by the River Lochy and north  by Glen Loy.  Due to the fantastic high pressure we had sitting over the UK, we were treated to some great views towards Ben Nevis.  With such good visibility, compasses remained in the rucksack, and just the map used to pick out various features, as we covered ground up towards Stob a' Ghrianain before descending into Coire an Lightuinn.

Navigating on the flanks of Stob a' Ghrianain,
with Ben Nevis in the background

Day 2 saw the team heading up the North Ridge of Stob Ban, in the Mamores, with an emphasis on group management and leadership, particularly on steeper and more rocky terrain.  The day highlighted the need for dynamic leadership, using a variety of leadership styles to safely and efficiently cover tricky ground, whilst still allowing a healthy degree of freedom for the group, who certainly wouldn't want to be 'in-tow' all day.  Again, we had great weather, and views up Glen Nevis and across to Carn Dearg and the southern slopes of Ben Nevis.

Negotiating steeper ground, just off the North Ridge of Stob Ban

Using the rope in the event of an emergency,
looking out to Ballachulish

Day 3 was another steep ground day, but on ground that as a Mountain Leader, you wouldn't intentionally encounter.  In other words, ground that as an ML, you would only be required to ascend, or more likely descend, in the event of an emergency or as an escape route.  We ventured into Glen a' Chaolais, by Ballachulish.  The various granite outcrops allowed the team to learn and practise safeguarding both a group and themselves by means of a rope (and nothing else!), by building belays, setting up simple top ropes using waist belays and abseiling using 'classic' methods.





Day 4 was based in Glen Nevis, looking at various methods to evacuate a casualty from the hills using improvised stretchers and other carrying methods before practising river crossings, both with and without a rope.  There were plenty of others in Glen Nevis, enjoying the sunshine (before the midges start attacking!)  The evening was spent route planning for an overnight expedition.

Practising river crossings in Glen Nevis

Days 5 & 6 were spent on an overnight expedition, with a strong emphasis on navigation and, of course, walking in amongst some fantastic mountain scenery.  We started in Glenfinnan, west of Fort William, and headed up onto Streap, which despite not quite attaining Munro status (3000 ft or 914m), still feels very mountainous, and has a narrow, airy ridge leading up to it's summit.  The weather did finally close in, which enabled the group to practise navigating in poorer visibility.   Another big aspect of becoming a Mountain Leader is the ability to navigate in any conditions, so part of the evening was spent navigating in the dark, relying on pacings, bearings and reading the steepness and aspects of the ground beneath their feet.  On day two, the weather cleared again, and we walked up Na h-Uamhachan, a broad ridge at 691m, and then descended back into Gleann Dubh Lighe.

Day 2 of the expedition, heading back down to Gleann Dubh Lighe,
with Loch Sheil in the distance

All the trainees took the course in their strides and are well on their way to becoming Summer Mountain Leaders, and for me, I found it very useful to recap the delivery of all the aspects of a Summer ML Training course (I did mine back in 2003), and enjoyed a productive week.

A Winter Mountain Leader in the making: Glen Feshie, Cairngorms

Views out to Glen Feshie and the Monaliadth Mountains

Over the course of this winter, my better half, Han, and I have had quite different agendas, which has lead to us spending very little time on the hill together. She's moments away from embarking on her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, whereas I've been out gaining experience in order to work towards my Mountain Instructor Certificate assessment, which has been predominantly winter mountaineering and climbing. We were due to go snow holing a couple of weeks ago, but a cold on Han's part saw an end to that idea, so finally we headed out to the hills east of Glen Feshie in the Cairngorms. An area popular for Winter Mountain Leader Assessments, due to it's potential for snow holing sites and for it's indistinct land features, ideal for testing navigation.

Sastrugi on Carn Ban Mor

 Snow was down to the valley base, enabling ski tourers to head off straight from the car park, whereas we were spending the day on foot. Glen Feshie is an amazing glen, and despite good access from Aviemore and Kingussie, on leaving the road suddenly a real sense of wilderness and remoteness is felt. The rolling nature of the hills also make the area a ski tourers' playground.

Drooping cornices on Carn Ban Mor

We headed up onto Carn Ban Mor, and quickly gained some incredible vistas up Glen Feshie and over towards the Monaliadth Mountains. From the summit, the western corries of Braeriach could be seen, with a sea of undulating snow lying inbetween. A navigator's dream or nightmare! After practising various navigational techniques such as pacing and staying on a bearing in white out conditions, we found one of the snow hole sites, one of the snow holes here was palatial. After lunching in one, we set off to find some more obscure navigational points, and in doing so, the clouds closed in, enabling Han to practise in true poor visibility. We finished back on Carn Ban Mor, and as we descended back into Glen Feshie, were greeted by moody sunshine and ominous looking clouds out to the west.


Han's well on track for her Winter Mountain Leader Assessment, having put a lot of time and effort into getting ready, and I wish her all the best! Go for it!