Mountaineering on Ben Nevis: Tower Ridge & Ledge Route

Today I was out with Wes and Kevin, who were keen to tackle one of the finest mountaineering routes in the UK, Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.  Both had a fair bit of hillwalking and scrambling experience under their belts, but the majority of scrambling they had both done had tended to be in the Lake District and North Wales, so as the clouds swirled around the coires as we made our way up towards the CIC Hut, they were clearly in awe at the scale of the north face of Ben Nevis, and in particular that of Tower Ridge.

We made good progress up the ridge, and were fortunate for the clouds to lift and provide some impressive views out towards Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Beag and beyond.  I've said it many times before, but these spectacular views are very hard to get bored of!  We didn't hang around, and soon found ourselves at 'The Gap'.  On Saturday, a substantial block came away from Tower Gap (details here), which has led to the down climb into the gap being slightly trickier than before, and more importantly has loosened up a few other surrounding blocks in the gap, and now requires greater care than before.  We did just that, and soon found ourselves emerging into the sunshine on the summit plateau.

Beyond the Gap

The gravity defying blocks on Ledge Route

As if scrambling 900m up was not enough, Wes and Kevin were keen to descend via Ledge Route, and in no time at all, we were back down at the CIC Hut.  All in all, it was another fantastic day to be out in the mountains.

Ben Nevis this afternoon

All clear on Ben Nevis

Yesterday, I was working for Snowdonia Adventures, along with Mark and Helen, and were with a group from 'Islamic Help', a charity based in Birmingham, who are doing what they can in order to make a difference to the lives of those afflicted by poverty and suffering, and in particular those affected by the devastating earthquakes which hit south-western Pakistan earlier this year.

The group's aim was to scale the UK's highest peak, Ben Nevis, standing tall at 1344m above sea level.  Whilst many of the group had been to the top of Snowdon, a worthy achievement in itself, the walk up the mountain path of Ben Nevis has the added challenge of starting at just 15m above sea.  Fortunately, we were blessed with good weather throughout the day, and the group did very well, with 18 out of 20 making the summit.  The group were particularly impressed with views into the north face of the mountain, providing views very different to those encountered on the western and southern slopes.  I certainly don't ever get bored of looking down onto the steep cliffs and ridges, it is an amazing place after all!

Team 'Islamic Help' on top of the UK

Tranquility on the summit of Ben Nevis... for an hour at least!

Today, Max, Jamie B, Isi and myself were all working for Jagged Globe, marshalling various checkpoints on the mountain track up Ben Nevis, as part of a 3 Peak Challenge, this time for 'Action for Charity'.

Max and I were marshalling on the summit of the mountain, me at the top of Gardyloo Gully, where the mountain track makes a dog-leg, and Max at the summit itself, which given the forecast, was definitely the most scenic place to be.  In order to ensure that we were in position before the 36 teams (made up from 180 participants) arrived at the summit, we left the Glen Nevis Visitors Centre at 3am, and made quick progress to arrive at the summit just after 5am.  The teams didn't leave until 4am, so that allowed Max and I to enjoy a very tranquil hour and a half on the summit, above a cloud inversion, with some stunning views over towards Tower Ridge, Carn Dearg and Carn Mor Dearg. 

The top of Gardyloo Gully and the summit of Ben Nevis to the right.

Once the first team arrived, the other teams followed in hot pursuit, with the final team making the summit at 8:30am.  We followed the final team down, and reached the glen at about 11:30am.  For us, that was the end of a day's work, for the 36 teams, it was time to drive down to the Lakes, and Scafell for the second of their three peaks.

Book Review: Winter Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glen Coe by Mike Pescod

I've just finished writing a book review for Mountaineering Council of Scotland's quarterly publication, The Scottish Mountaineer.

As another great season of winter climbing draws to a close, perhaps a little sooner than hoped, I can honestly say that there has been one item that has made my winter climbing season that bit easier this year.  That is the seventh edition of Winter Climbs – Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, published by Cicerone.  The baton for writing this guidebook, which started off in Ian Clough’s hands, and passed through Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber, landed in the steady hands of local Mountain Guide, Mike Pescod, and it’s quite clear, from initial impressions, that the substantial task of compiling a new guide for the premier winter climbing area in the UK, has been done very well.

The cover shot of Dave Macleod on one of the finest ice climbs on Ben Nevis, Orion Direct, gives the impression that the route is far steeper than it actually is.  Whilst the route and climber seem to be the ideal choice, the angle could do with adjusting.  I’d go so far as to say that I personally prefer the cover photo on the previous addition, but, as with all books, it is the all important content that counts, and the introductory chapter, which covers topics including: Climbing Conditions, Weather and Avalanches, Access and Rescue Facilities, is a must read, condensing years of experience into an easy to read and understand chapter, which any new comer to the area should get to grips with.  

The guidebook boasts over 900 climbs, a number of which are new routes since both the last edition and the SMC’s guidebooks, but one of the highlights of this edition must be the photo topos for almost all the crags, which are not only highly functional, but very inspiring too, and along with the various climbing shots and anecdotes, has ensured that the guidebook has lived on the coffee table, when not in the rucksack, throughout the winter.  

Lastly, the guidebook bridges an ever growing gap between the SMC publications, and certainly for those who tend towards winter climbing on the west coast of Scotland, this guidebook is a must.

Great ice on Comb Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

The initial icefall

Given that the forecast for today was light rain, I thought it would be worth heading up high, to find some late season ice on Ben Nevis. My better half, Han, and I have not really had much opportunity to climb together this winter, as she has been very focused on working towards her Winter ML Assessment, which I'm pleased to say she sailed through, so we thought it would be great to swing leads, and decided to seek out 'Comb Gully Buttress IV,4', just to the left of 'Comb Gully IV,4'. Seeking the buttress was easier said than done, as we were immersed in a thick pea souper upon gaining Coire Na Ciste. I have looked across at Comb Gully Buttress a couple of times in the past and been drawn to the route by an impressive icefall at the base, which overlooks the entrance to 'No.2 Gully'. I wasn't to be disappointed today, the icefall whilst only 6m or so high, was steep and sustained, and good fun! Grade IV,4, I think not!

Han then took over the lead, across the intermediate snow field, and then up the final pitch, which proved to be another excellent pitch of ice, with a couple of steep steps, which Han did very well to lead. Definitely quite stiff for IV,4, more like IV,5. Looking through the various guidebooks that exist, the true line of Comb Gully Buttress is slightly ambiguous, but whatever we did climb, it was a quality line, with some great ice, and is highly recommended!

Han setting off on Pitch 3

The bum slide down the Red Burn is the best it has been all season, and gives you 2 minutes of continuous slide, a relaxing way to descend the mountain! That may well have been my last day of personal climbing this winter, but only time will tell...

Due to the thick cloud that shrouded the mountain today, it was very hard to see anything, but 'Comb Gully' is still in great conditions, and 'The Comb - Left Flank' looked to be complete. The weekend still looks good for winter climbing.

Potentially a new route: Mint Sauce E1 5c*, Glen Nevis

Having enjoyed yesterdays session on Sheep Fank Wall in Glen Nevis, Alex and I decided to head back and climb some of the other routes up there.  The rock is clean and dries quickly, and although the routes are short, they're quite technical, and on the whole, quite well protected.  It's a great micro crag! Alex warmed up by climbing 'Haul HVS 5a', which sports a nicely exposed crux, before gaining easier ground to the tree belay.  He then mentioned that there could be a potential new route, which I was very keen to try...

Just beyond the crux of Mint Sauce

Beneath the first roof of the crag, which is bound by the route 'Fence Edge HS' to it's left, and 'Sheep Fank Direct S' to it's right, is a small hanging slab, which looked quite blank, and not recorded in any of the guidebooks for the area.  Protection seemed to be reasonable from the ground, so I thought that there would be nothing to loose by having a go.  Having placed a Wild Country Zero Friend and a small Black Diamond micro-stopper, I made a few false starts before finally committing to the thin and quite strenuous slab, with feet on the tiniest features and hands undercutting varying quality of holds on the roof itself.  The join between the roof and slab didn't yield a thing for hands!  It was only a couple of moves across the slab, but felt quite exposed, as a slip would certainly not be pleasant!  Once I had gained the arete to the left, I muttered to Alex that I wasn't quite out the woods yet, before placing a solid cam, and establishing myself on the easier line of 'Fence Edge'.



I'm surprised that the slab had not been recorded, as it was a good route, with quite a technical crux, and it fits in well with the other routes on offer on the wall.  I've emailed the Scottish Mountaineering Club, and put the route forward...

POLLDUBH, Sheep Fank Wall:

Mint Sauce   30m   E1 5c *. Ken Applegate, Alex Wheeldon. 29 March 2011.

Start beneath the corner 3m right of the lowest point of the crag.  Climb up the corner, to the roof then make a delicate traverse left, across the hanging slab to gain the arete of Fence Edge and easier ground above.

Alex pulling through the crux on Tickattack

We finished the afternoon off with 'Tickattack E1 5b', which boasts an exposed and entertaining move as it's crux, to gain easier ground above.  Well protected, and good fun!

It's looking wet tomorrow, so I'm going to head up and see what winter's left on Ben Nevis...

Simply Stunning: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis this morning.

Back up Ben Nevis again today, and what a difference to yesterday!  Again working for Abacus Mountaineering, the same two pairings as yesterday, Phil with Mike and Dominic with myself all decided to head up to have a look at something long and icy.  It doesn't really get as long and icey as 'Astral Highway VI,5', which Mike and Phil headed for, and 'Orion Direct V,5', which we had in mind.  There had been a hard freeze through the night, which helped with the walk-in to the CIC Hut, and with clear blue skies, things were looking excellent!

Mike heading up the second pitch

Spindrift coming down the second pitch

On route, we followed a French team, and Richard Bentley with his client, but despite there being three teams, we rarely had to wait long.  With clear skies, amazing views, little wind and great climbing, the waiting really wasn't an issue either.  The crux, the traverse on pitch five, was a bit thin today and not particularly well protected, but the climbing at that point is never too hard, and once the traverse was over, there was ample opportunity to get an ice screw in.  We topped out to magnificent vistas in every direction, and could easily make out Skye, The Cairngorms, Schiehallion, Glencoe and Rhum.  There was a lot of spindrift pouring down Point 5 Gully when the winds picked up in the afternoon.  The descent from the Halfway Lochain to the North Face Car Park is hard going at the moment, with very deep snow in places.

The team walking over towards the summit of Ben Nevis this afternoon

All in all, a great couple of days, with two very different routes.  Other teams out on Hadrian's Wall Direct, Tower Ridge, Upper Tower Cascades, and again numerous teams heading up to Vanishing Gully.  One team backed away from Observatory Ridge, no doubt due to the amount of loose snow on it.  Unfortunately, an avalanche came down Garadh Gully and injured a French team in the vicinity.

The very white peak: North Ridge of Stob Ban

The final day of working for Hughes Mountaineering saw me heading into The Mamores, with Declan, Tom and Miriam to have a last mountaineering adventure with one real criteria for the day: to get back for the Ireland/Wales Six Nations rugby fixture at 5pm!  With snow forecasted and a shift in the wind direction, it made sense to stick to ridges, and with that in mind, opted to head up the North Ridge of Stob Ban.  Stob Ban translates as the white peak, and although the term refers to it's quartzite composition, it was certainly very white with the freshly deposited snow.

A snow covered North Ridge

The ridge has great character, rising at first quite sharply out of Glen Nevis, then easing off before tackling what at first seems to be an improbable buttress.  Once up close, the true nature of the difficulties become much clearer and easier than initial impressions might suggest.  A couple of rocky steps and some meandering lead to a spectacular snowy arete, leading the way towards the various false summits and finally the shattered quartzite peak of Stob Ban.  Windslab, which had been forming on the easterly facing slopes over the past couple of days, was also forming rapidly on the westerly facing slopes due to the new wind direction.  On the summit, we bumped into a team from the Ice Factor  who suggested that the trench they had created on their ascent (also our intended descent) would prove useful, however so much snow had fallen that their foot deep trench had already filled in.

Not a great photo but it shows the
amount of snow on the descent path

We were able to forge a path back down the mountain, through at times waist deep snow, trying to stick to the line of the path as closely as possible, which was very obscure at times.  We made it down for just gone 4pm, allowing enough times to make it back for the rugby, but  I bet they wished they hadn't have bothered given the final score!  A great and very different three days, all reflecting the diversity and challenges of Scottish winter mountaineering.

In the clouds: Green Gully, Ben Nevis

Tower Ridge and No. 2 Gully area this morning

A second day working for West Coast Mountain Guides, with Ashley and Dimitri, saw us back up Ben Nevis.  The freezing level had dropped though the night, and it felt markedly cooler this morning, even down at sea level.  It's the first time in a while that the freezing levels have really dropped, which was certainly long overdue.  Ashley and Dimitri found yesterday's climb adventurous, but quite straight forward, and so wanted something slightly more challenging today.  We headed back up to Coire Na Ciste, an hour ahead of yesterday, to find the mountain much quieter.  There were only 4 teams gearing up beneath Trident Buttresses, two of whom were heading up to Glover's Chimney, one to have a look at Thompson's Route and one to head up Number 3 Gully Buttress.  The Cascade up by No. 2 Gully is looking good, as is quite a bit of the ice in that area. Green Gully did have a team on it already, they must have had an early start as they were at least half way up the route at 9am.

Dimitri and Ashley at a belay

Most of the climbing in Green Gully at the moment is at grade III, with a couple of steps of IV, and the snow and ice was in great condition, particularly on the crux pitch and on the direct finish.  Both Ashley and Dimitri were suitably challenged today, and did well for their third Scottish winter climb.  On topping out, we were greeted by fresh winds building rime on the exposed rock, which is certainly very promising.  The snow had really firmed up down to about 800m, and with winter looking to return with a vengeance this week, climbing conditions will improve in the long term.

Descending the Red Burn in the clouds.

Quiet in Observatory Gully: Observatory Buttress, Ben Nevis

With the freezing level forecasted to be high for today, James and I decided to go high on Ben Nevis, with the intention of climbing the ice line of 'Observatory Buttress V,4'.  We walked in with blue skies and sunshine, which stayed with us for most of the day, although the clouds did occasionally roll in, eerily down Observatory Gully and obscure otherwise very clear views of Tower Ridge.  It was quiet on this side of the mountain, with two teams on Hadrian's Wall and two on Point 5 Gully.  A couple of other teams passed beneath us later on, Mike and his client who climbed 'Smith's Route V,5', which has only really just come into conditions, and there were footsteps leading up to a well formed 'Tower Scoop III'.

Coire Na Ciste today

 

Observatory Gully today

James starting up pitch 1, with Hadrian's Wall in the background.

The route was clearly in good condition, judging by the fat white streak on an otherwise blackening buttress.  James led the first pitch, which was a straight forward icy groove, to the first snowy bay.  I took over the lead and led through the various bulges and steps of ice, before climbing through the short but steep crux.   The ice so far had been nothing short of excellent, taking first time axe placements and good ice screws where required.  James led on through to reach the large terrace, from where an escape into Observatory Gully is possible.  I was keen to have a go at the 'Direct Finish V,5', which is the recommended finish for a number of the other climbs which finish at the terrace, so a big traverse put us at the base of a well formed icy groove.  James then led the groove well, and after 50m, belayed over towards 'Left Edge V,5'.  From here, it was obvious where the Direct Finish went, but it was also clear that the ice was quite thin, so that axes were going to have to be carefully placed, and that the climbing would link patches of thicker ice and neve on the ledges and less steep sections.  After three tied off ice screws, I was able to get a sinker, before committing to a series of more technical moves, and finally appreciated the security of a well hammered No. 10 nut!  The climbing was never desperate, in fact, it was good fun, but quite serious at the same time.  We topped out to an amazing cloud inversion, with only the tops of Carn Dearg, Trident Buttress and the summit popping out, and both agreed that it had been a fantastic route!

Me on the crux pitch.  It was steeper than it looks!

The temperature didn't rise as much as forecasted, with the freezing level at about 1100-1200m through the day.  Tomorrow's forecast is for milder conditions and strong south westerly gusts, so it would be worth sticking to the thicker ice routes.

Views of Tower Ridge

Hadrian's Wall Direct, Sickle and Point 5 Gully

 

More spice for the Spaniards; Typhoon, East Face of Aonach Mor

Abseiling down the line of Morwind

Whilst Fort William was covered by a heavy blanket of cloud, caused by a temperature inversion, my two amigos were asking whether they should have brought sun cream such was the clarity of the sky.  Fabien and Jorge were keen for something harder today, to really get to grips with steeper winter climbing, so following yesterday's big day out, I decided to get up onto Aonach Mor, with the promise of more scoured (less avalanche) prone east facing crags.  We were one of the first teams up on the summit and abseiled in via 'Morwind IV,4', which currently has three equipped abseils (do check the state of the tat, and more importantly, do not abseil onto teams already climbing).  There was a reasonable amount of snow beneath the crags, but it was fairly secure, although we did rope up from the base of Morwind to reach the base of 'Typhoon IV,5'.

Alpinesque on the East Face of Aonach Mor, with Turf Walk
directly above and Roaring Forties on the right

With blue skies, and brilliant white ice on the crags, there was definitely a non-Scottish feel to the descent!  Typhoon receives three stars in the guidebooks, and rightly so, as it's brilliant!  We climbed three sustained pitches, which all offered great and interesting climbing, which really tested Fabien and Jorge.  They were enjoying every minute of it, well at least whenever I asked them, although I may have missed their Spanish obscenities at the belays, as ice showered down on them!  I may be putting my neck on the line, but I honestly think it to be a far better climb than 'White Shark IV,4' providing far more interest.  The ice was mostly good, allowing mainly first time axe placements, but I didn't want to trust too much of the ice with screws, fortunately there is plenty of rock gear in the right wall, along with a couple of in-situ pegs.

Fabien and Jorge on the final pitch.  Big cornices present.

Lots of other teams out, many of whom descended via Easy Gully, including Denis and Susan who climbed 'Tunnel Vision III' and Alex and James climbed Pumkin on Creag Meagaidh and reported it to be in good condition.   A great two days, giving a nice snapshot of Scottish winter climbing for Fabien and Jorge.  The only thing they've missed out on are the strong winds and rain which also form a big part of climbing up here!  

More like typical Scottish conditions on the summit!

A Grand Day Out: East Ridge, Stob Ban

At the moment, two friends from Spain have come over, in the hope of bagging their first Scottish winter climbs!  Luckily, I'm fresh out of MIC Training, and was keen to give Fabien and Jorge a flavoursome taste of Scottish winter climbing, whilst using them as guinea pigs, or Conejillo de Indias!  I didn't think they would have any objections!  It wasn't easy to pick a route which fulfilled all the criteria of being an ideal intro route, providing big adventure, whilst being safe given the high avalanche risk, forcasted by the SAIS for Lochaber and Glencoe.  It was in the eleventh hour that I decided to try the 'East Ridge II/III' of Stob Ban in the Mamores.  Route choice was again absolutely critical, and the East Ridge on the North Buttress seemed to tick all the boxes: a ridge, east facing, safe approach over low angled slopes, safe descent and potential for adventure.

Fabien and Jorge enjoying themselves

I've not climbed on Stob Ban before, and I've no idea why really, as the East Ridge was great!  It has quite a mountaineering feel, with some varied climbing, from snowy ridges to short technical steps, and has great gear and belays all the way.  Route finding didn't seem to be too tricky, with it being a case of following your nose, although I'm sure many variations at the grade are possible.   Conditions on route could not really have been better, with bomber turf, solid neve, and not too much loose snow.

Fabien and Jorge tackling one of the trickier steps

We opted to descend by going over the summit of Stob Ban at 999m, and then follow the ridge east to then head north back down the Allt Coire a'Mhusgain.  Fabien and Jorge are both keen sport climbers, so fitness and physical ability were not going to pose too much of an issue, but I'm sure they'll both sleep well tonight!  There were other teams on the route, how many exactly, I've no idea, as we were the first team, and only saw two other teams.

All clad in yellow, on the summit of Stob Ban, 999m