Another great day in Glencoe

One of the great things about living in Fort William is that less than half an hour away, the magnificent valley of Glencoe can be reached, offering countless opportunities for mountaineering adventures in a very different setting to those of the immediate mountains of Fort William.

Today, I was out with Norm, from Boston, US, who was on an extended tour of the UK.  He had already spent days out on Bruach Na Frithe on Skye, and The Five Sisters in Glen Sheil, and wanted to round off his time in the Scottish Highlands with a walk up to the highest point in Glencoe, Bidean nam Bian at 1150m.  The circuit to reach this summit is detailed in Cameron McNeish's 'Scotland 100 Best Walks' and it would be hard to disagree with it's inclusion.

Despite a good forecast, the skies above were grey and threatening as we headed up the path towards Stob Coire Nan Lochan, which despite it's stature, does not quite make it to Munro status due to the lack in high difference between it and Bidean nam Bian.  On gaining the coire, we veered south east to gain the broad ridge of Gearr Aonach which leds onto the atmospheric East Ridge of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  Once at the summit, a short descent and ascent, overlooking the crags of Stob Coire Nan Beith and Church Door Buttress brought us to the summit of Glencoe's highest peak, Bidean Nam Bian.  Someone must have been looking down on us, as by now, the clouds had lifted giving fantastic views out to Ardgour, The Mamores, Glen Etive and Rannoch Moor.  A steep descent from the summit brought us down into the Lost Valley, one of the hidden gems of Glencoe, before picking our way through the native woodland, which guards the entrance to the Lost Valley, and down to the Meeting of Three Waters and finally back to the van.

On the South East Ridge of Stobe Coire Nan Lochan, with Stob Coire Sgreamach behind

On the summit of Bidean nam Bian, with Loch Etive in the background

A fantastic day out with some stunning views and good weather, and one which Norm said he would remember for a long time! 

Coached Scrambling on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Returning clients are great!  Of course I would say that, as it brings back business, but more to the point, it allows both a solid relationship to develop and great opportunities for progression and that's just what the theme of today was all about.  Wes, Kev, both of whom I had guided up Tower Ridge back in July, came back for more mountaineering, and this time had brought Chris along too.  Tower Ridge is unquestionably one of the finest and challenging scrambles in the UK and to step it up from there (without visiting Skye) would enter the realms of rock climbing (North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis spring to mind), for which better weather than what was forecasted would be required.  So, in order to challenge the three, and in particular Wes, as he had a bit more experience under his belt, I suggested that a day of coached scrambling, with Wes on the sharp end, leading Kev and Chris, on the Glencoe classic, Curved Ridge would make the most of their day.

We set off from the car, with steady drizzle and low cloud, as I explained the various landmarks and directions, which make finding Curved Ridge in the low cloud far easier and picked our way to the base of the ridge.  Before setting off, we talked through the ideal scrambling rack and the principles of scrambling with a rope, i.e. being safe enough rather than too safe in order to keep things moving, and the three components of scrambling:

1) flow -keeping things moving, being dynamic with decision making and planning ahead
2) control -using the rope efficiently and effectively and ensuring that both seconds are always protected
3) command -directing both seconds, at times independently

Chris and Kev enjoying the scrambling, with Rannoch Wall behind

Wes took all of this on-board and with some en-route coaching, brought Kev and Chris up safely and quickly to reach the top of Easy Gully and the base of Crowberry Tower for lunch.  Wes has also started his quest to complete all 283 Munros within 10 years, so rather than hang about, we made our way up the final broken ground to the summit of Stob Dearg, and quickly fired our way along the broad ridge of Buachaille Etive Mòr to the second Munro, Sgor na Bròige.  Munro no. 6 in the bag! The weather had improved vastly throughout the day, allowing fantastic views down into Glen Etive and across to Buachaille Etive Beag.

At the top of Curved Ridge, with glimpses towards Rannoch Moor behind

Spectacular views up Glen Etive

Mountaineering on Ben Nevis: Tower Ridge & Ledge Route

Today I was out with Wes and Kevin, who were keen to tackle one of the finest mountaineering routes in the UK, Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.  Both had a fair bit of hillwalking and scrambling experience under their belts, but the majority of scrambling they had both done had tended to be in the Lake District and North Wales, so as the clouds swirled around the coires as we made our way up towards the CIC Hut, they were clearly in awe at the scale of the north face of Ben Nevis, and in particular that of Tower Ridge.

We made good progress up the ridge, and were fortunate for the clouds to lift and provide some impressive views out towards Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Beag and beyond.  I've said it many times before, but these spectacular views are very hard to get bored of!  We didn't hang around, and soon found ourselves at 'The Gap'.  On Saturday, a substantial block came away from Tower Gap (details here), which has led to the down climb into the gap being slightly trickier than before, and more importantly has loosened up a few other surrounding blocks in the gap, and now requires greater care than before.  We did just that, and soon found ourselves emerging into the sunshine on the summit plateau.

Beyond the Gap

The gravity defying blocks on Ledge Route

As if scrambling 900m up was not enough, Wes and Kevin were keen to descend via Ledge Route, and in no time at all, we were back down at the CIC Hut.  All in all, it was another fantastic day to be out in the mountains.

Ben Nevis this afternoon

All clear on Ben Nevis

Yesterday, I was working for Snowdonia Adventures, along with Mark and Helen, and were with a group from 'Islamic Help', a charity based in Birmingham, who are doing what they can in order to make a difference to the lives of those afflicted by poverty and suffering, and in particular those affected by the devastating earthquakes which hit south-western Pakistan earlier this year.

The group's aim was to scale the UK's highest peak, Ben Nevis, standing tall at 1344m above sea level.  Whilst many of the group had been to the top of Snowdon, a worthy achievement in itself, the walk up the mountain path of Ben Nevis has the added challenge of starting at just 15m above sea.  Fortunately, we were blessed with good weather throughout the day, and the group did very well, with 18 out of 20 making the summit.  The group were particularly impressed with views into the north face of the mountain, providing views very different to those encountered on the western and southern slopes.  I certainly don't ever get bored of looking down onto the steep cliffs and ridges, it is an amazing place after all!

Team 'Islamic Help' on top of the UK

Change of Scenery: DofE Silver Expeds with Eton College

Having had one day to turn around my kit after Skye, Max and I headed off on the 22nd June to North Wales for eight days, to work for A to Z Expeditions, who specialise in providing training and expeditions for the Duke of Edinburgh's Award, across the length and breadth of the UK. Keen to tackle their Silver practice and qualifying expeditions in one intense (in tents!) 8 day burst were Eton College, who were made up of 7 highly motivated and enthusiastic groups. Alongside Max, I was working with Simon Knight, Dave Fowler and Steve Ironside, a great bunch of fellow instructors, all of whom were keen to deliver high levels of challenge and adventure.

The determined 'Group 7' with Tom, Ludo, Jo, Ed, Oliver and Tom

Group 7 on the summit of Moel Siabod

The focus of the first expedition, the practice was to equip the groups with the necessary skills required to be self sufficient in the mountains, so included everything from use of stoves to basic and more advanced navigational techniques. During day 2, the weather was such as to necessitate the use of pacing and following bearings in poor viability, both skills of which the group I was with grasped quickly. I was particularly impressed with the determination and ability of 'Group 7' made up of two Toms, Jo, Ludo, Ed and Oliver. On day three of the practice expedition, we headed up the West Ridge of Moel Siabod, which provided some easy scrambling and great views in the adjacent cwm, which clearly showed signs of glaciation.

The following day allowed groups to relax, replenish energy supplies and reset all their kit before setting out again, for what was to be some fantastic three day qualifying expeditions. The groups I was supervising started at Llyn Gywnant, before tackling Snowdon via the back of Cwm Tregalan, talk about being thrown in the deep end! In order to meet our respective groups, Dave and I enjoyed a quick scramble over Crib Goch, and having eventually met all the groups, (who were in varying states of euphoria and appreciation for what they had just completed), we descended down the Parson's Nose, whilst the groups made their ways down either the Pyg Track or alongside the railway.

Group 1 successfully on the summit of Snowdon 1085m

Group 2, just as successful, on the summit of Snowdon

Day two saw my two groups crossing over from The Pass of Llanberis, via the spectacular Devil's Kitchen into the Ogwen Valley, before camping at the head of Llyn Cowlyd Reservoir, a great little site, nestled in amongst hillocks and small rocky outcrops. The final day saw both groups finishing their qualifying expeditions in good adventurous style, taking in the Carneddau before finally descending to Aber Falls and onto Abergwyngregyn. Throughout the three days, both groups showed nothing but determination and a thorough understanding of what it is to be self-sufficient in the mountains. Well done to all the Eton College groups who all rose to the many challenges, I look forward to working with them again next year!

Four days on Skye, including a Cuillin Ridge Traverse

The northern Munros of the Black Cuillin

It's certainly been a busy few weeks, hence the lack of postings here, but my feet have finally touched the ground, so to speak, for a short while at least!  Friday the 17th June saw an early start with a drive to the 'Misty Isle', or Skye as it's better known as, which in my mind, is one of the finest mountaineering playgrounds in the UK (see my book review on the new Skye Scrambles Guidebook, published by the SMC), and to meet up with Steve and shadow Mike along with his clients; Nick, Noel, Bob and Peter, with the intention of completing the three northern most Munros on the Black Cuillin; Sgurr Nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach Na Frithe.  The circuit is very achievable in a day, and incorporates plenty of excitement, from the airy scramble along and back down the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean and a tricky down climb from the summit of Am Basteir, imaginatively called 'The Bad Step', to a spectacular abseil down the Knight's Cave Chimney, in between the summit of Am Basteir and Am Basteir's Tooth.  From here, it was a straight forward walk to the summit of the third Munro, Bruach Na Frithe, before descending back down Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather took a turn for the worse as the day progressed, however despite the rain, the group had a great day.

Heading up the West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Heading to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean

Saturday saw me working with Mike for Abacus Mountaineering and heading out with Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan for a warm up day up Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean, before a full Cuillin Ridge Traverse starting on Sunday.  In profile, Pinnacle Ridge, which we saw the previous day, looks quite spectacular and imposing, and whilst the journey is nothing short of spectacular, the actual route over the pinnacles is far less intimidating than first appearances may suggest.   The highlight must be the airy abseil from the third pinnacle, onto quite a narrow ledge, before down climbing to a much larger ledge below.  The ascent of the Knight's Peak involved some fantastic scrambling, before easing off leading up to the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean.  From the summit, we heading back down the West Ridge and back down to Coire a'Bhasteir.  The weather held out nicely, and gave the team a taste of what was to follow over the next couple of days.

Loch Scavaig and Loch Coruisk

Anthony, Paul, James and Bryan

The team had opted to start the traverse by taking the boat from Elgol, across Loch Scavaig to the foot of Gars Bheinn, which I now think is possibly the best way to start the traverse due to not having to back track at all, never mind the adventurous feel to it all!  We made good progress up onto the ridge, and found ourselves at Sgurr Dubh Mor in good time.  Both Mike and I took our teams up the King's Chimney on Sgurr MhicConnich, before moving swiftly up An Stac and up and over the Inaccessible Pinnacle, where the weather took a slight dip, fortunately the difficulties for the day were done with. That evening we made it passed the Three Teeth of Sgurr Thormaid for a short bivi.  The following morning was another early start, however following the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Greadaidh and technical climbing of Sgurr a'Mhadiadh, I descended from the ridge at Bealach na Glaic Moire, with Bryan who was finding that his knees were giving him trouble.  It must have been a hard decision for him to make, and made all the more difficult by watching the rest of the team head off up Bidein Druim Nan Ramh.   Mike went on to complete the ridge with Anthony, Paul and James, despite less than ideal conditions, so a huge well done to them!

Descending the Inn Pinn

Tacking the knife edge ridge of Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh

That was my first substantial bit of work on Skye, and I'm not sure that guiding in the mountains gets much better, so fingers crossed it won't be long until I'm back on Skye! (All photos courtesy of Steve Holmes).

Tranquility on the summit of Ben Nevis... for an hour at least!

Today, Max, Jamie B, Isi and myself were all working for Jagged Globe, marshalling various checkpoints on the mountain track up Ben Nevis, as part of a 3 Peak Challenge, this time for 'Action for Charity'.

Max and I were marshalling on the summit of the mountain, me at the top of Gardyloo Gully, where the mountain track makes a dog-leg, and Max at the summit itself, which given the forecast, was definitely the most scenic place to be.  In order to ensure that we were in position before the 36 teams (made up from 180 participants) arrived at the summit, we left the Glen Nevis Visitors Centre at 3am, and made quick progress to arrive at the summit just after 5am.  The teams didn't leave until 4am, so that allowed Max and I to enjoy a very tranquil hour and a half on the summit, above a cloud inversion, with some stunning views over towards Tower Ridge, Carn Dearg and Carn Mor Dearg. 

The top of Gardyloo Gully and the summit of Ben Nevis to the right.

Once the first team arrived, the other teams followed in hot pursuit, with the final team making the summit at 8:30am.  We followed the final team down, and reached the glen at about 11:30am.  For us, that was the end of a day's work, for the 36 teams, it was time to drive down to the Lakes, and Scafell for the second of their three peaks.

The final summit of the Three Peaks: Ben Nevis

Completing the 'Three Peaks' (reaching the summits of Snowdon, Scafell and Ben Nevis) is quite an achievement for many hillwalkers, so for a small group of Year 8s from S. Anslem's Prep School in Derbyshire to complete this undertaking is a fantastic achievement!

I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides, and along with teachers John and Helen, we accompanied an enthusiastic team of 8 up Ben Nevis, and in very good time too, 7 hours up and down, which is quicker than many adult teams!  We encountered a reasonable amount of fresh snow towards the summit, and in places it was mid-calf deep!  We were lucky to have the summit cairn to ourselves, despite probably close to 70 people milling about the summit ruins.  It certainly wasn't a day to hang about on the summit, so after a quick congratulations, photo and bite to eat, we swiftly descended back down to Glen Nevis.  A very impressive achievement for the 8 young mountaineers from S. Anslem's Prep School, let's hope that they've caught the mountaineering bug, and find their way back up the Highlands again soon!

S. Anslem's Prep School on the roof of the UK

A fine day on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Today I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides.  I was out with Bill and Mike who were keen to either climb Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis or Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.  With the weather not looking fantastic, the decision was made to head to Glencoe and climb the classic Curved Ridge.  As we pulled into the lay-by by the SMC's Lagangarbh Hut, it was steadily raining, so donning waterproofs, we headed up towards Coire Na Tulaich, before veering off eastwards and round towards Rannoch Wall and Curved Ridge.

Not long into the approach, the rain eased, and despite weather forecasts, failed to materialise for the remainder of the day.  The scrambling on Curved ridge is great, with good, continuous clean rock and plenty of opportunity to build quick belays, either by placing gear or by using one of the numerous spikes on the route.  As we drew level with the base of the impressive Rannoch Wall, we chatted briefly to a team, about to start up the classic VDiff, Agag's Groove.

We reached the top of Curved Ridge, and the summit of Stob Dearg (the first of the Buachaille Etive Mor summits) in good time, before making our way round to the top of Coire Na Tualaich, and descending via the screes and broken ground down into the coire.  Bill and Mike were also keen to learn a few key scrambling skills such as building quick yet safe belays, using both natural anchors such as spikes and threads, and with placed protection such as cams and nuts, so we ventured off the descent path to one of the many outcrops that scatter the coire.  On the final leg of our descent, we heard the distant rumble of thunder, and again the rain fell, hopefully after the team on Agag's Groove had topped out!

Bill and Mike on Curved Ridge, with Rannoch Wall on the left

Very wintery up high: North Gully, Ben Nevis

For the second and final day, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary, we headed back up Ben Nevis, to tackle something a little more technical than yesterday and to have a look at the ropework and management involved with pitched climbing.  What started off as a dryish day, soon took a turn for the worse during the walk up to the CIC Hut, but whilst we were being rained on, the crags higher up were being coated by another fresh dusting of snow.

Fresh snow falling on the way up to Creag Coire Na Ciste

It was very quiet on the approach, although we did pass an optimistic adventurer with his skis strapped to his back!  We made for 'North Gully II' on Creag Coire Na Ciste, which is a great little route, with an interesting first pitch containing a step of steeper ice, before easing off, and passing through some quite dramatic scenery.  With spindrift pouring down, at times some heavy snow fall, rime building on the higher rocks and with fresh south westerly winds transporting snow onto the leeward slopes, creating pockets of fresh windslab, it felt as though we were back in the depths of winter.

Just above the crux on North Gully

The three did well on the three pitches of climbing, and we had just enough time to fulfil their ambition, to reach the summit of Ben Nevis.  The Red Burn bumslide is now riddled with holes, and is nowhere near as fun as last week.  Other teams out on Good Friday Climb, which was reported to be in good condition, Smith's Route, Central Gully Right Hand (which is said to be thin and the left hand line is no longer in), another team in North Gully and Green Gully is still apparently still in good shape.  Monday will be very wintery on the mountain, but again, temperatures are set to rise significantly during Tues and Wed, before cooling down again. These freeze/thaw conditions could well help regenerate the ice...  The fat lady hasn't sung just yet!

Ben Nevis this afternoon

A nice wintery surprise: Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Fresh snow this morning

Following a very mild Friday, with high winds, heavy rain and temperatures on the summit of Ben Nevis hitting 7 °C, I was a little unsure as to how wintery it would be for a two day Winter Mountaineering Course, working for Abacus Mountaineering, with Wes, Jamie and Gary. Fortune, it seemed, was to be on my side! Once the strong winds died, the temperatures dropped and the rain ceased, which all happened at once, at about 6am, it had left behind a reasonable cover of fresh snow down to about 700m. 

Final snow ridge of Ledge Route

Wes, Jamie and Gary had all climbed a number of grade 1 gullies, in the Lake District, and had plenty of experience summer hill walking and scrambling, but were after something a little more adventurous, and also were very interested in learning the rope work required to protect tricky steps both in ascent and descent.  My decision to head for 'Ledge Route II' was confirmed as we approached Coire Na Ciste, and saw that the fresh snow had transformed a previously quite bare Ledge Route back to its full winter glory.  Quick progress was made up this classic route, stopping occasionally to focus on various rope techniques, before making the summit of Carn Dearg, where there was at least 4 inches of fresh snow, and it was certainly very wintery up there.  We headed round to No. 4 Gully, and had a look at stacked abseiling to enter the gully.  On regaining the base of Coire Na Ciste, the clouds lifted and it was clear that a lot of the freshly fallen snow had melted, leaving Ledge Route quite black again.  The flatter sections will still be snow covered, but the steeper section will be back to bare rock.

Coire Na Ciste this afternoon

It was a very quiet day on Ben Nevis, with a couple of teams heading up into Observatory Gully and a couple of others on Ledge Route.  The ice that was on Good Eve's Buttress and Raeburn's Wall is starting to look at bit thin, as did Hadrian's Wall Direct, which is riddled with large holes.  I'm sure Comb Gully Buttress will still be fine, as will Comb and Green Gully and some of the gullys on Creag Coire Na Ciste.  Freezing levels are due to be at 900m tomorrow, so it could be another good day.

Is that it for winter? Rock climbing in Glen Nevis

I'm not writing winter off just yet, and with freezing levels below the summit of Ben Nevis tomorrow, it does look like the ice may hold out a little longer, but with a low pressure system tracking it's way across the British Isle on Tuesday night, I thought that I would make the most of the current dry and mild conditions closer to sea level, or more specifically, in Glen Nevis.

Alex leading Tonis on Sheep Flank Wall

Rain was threatening as Alex and I drove into Glen Nevis, but we thought that we would just press on, and fortunately, the rain didn't really amount to anything.  First up, was a route that I had tried a few years ago, the steep fault of 'Kraut E1 5b' on After Crag.  I had had to rest on the rope last time I had tried the route, so with a bit more of a tactical approach this time, i.e. shake-out before the crux, I climbed the route without too much of a problem.  It was steep, and an enjoyable awakening to this season of rock climbing.  We then wandered over to Sheep Fank Wall, which having had a number of trees felled around it's base, now sported clean, dry rock, and some enjoyable shorter routes.  I then led 'Tonis HVS 5a' and 'Brown Slab E1 5b', the latter of which can be found the the late Ed Grindley's 'Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis', both of which were quite technical and a little bold at their respective cruxes.

So, a good start to this season's rock climbing, finger's crossed that the rain holds off tomorrow.  I was out working in on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe yesterday, and made an ascent of Broad Gully, which was still complete along with Forked Gully and North Gully, and there is still a reasonable amount of snow up in the coire, and certainly the coires of Bidian Nan Bian are still firmly gripping on to their winter coats.  Progress up there will be quite tough though, as there are are no footsteps to follow!  Still plenty of ice to climb on Ben Nevis, including quite a bit of ice around No. 2 Gully Buttress area (The White Line, Expert's Choice etc.) and check Scott's Blog for details on the conditions in Observatory Gully.

Simply Stunning: Orion Direct, Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis this morning.

Back up Ben Nevis again today, and what a difference to yesterday!  Again working for Abacus Mountaineering, the same two pairings as yesterday, Phil with Mike and Dominic with myself all decided to head up to have a look at something long and icy.  It doesn't really get as long and icey as 'Astral Highway VI,5', which Mike and Phil headed for, and 'Orion Direct V,5', which we had in mind.  There had been a hard freeze through the night, which helped with the walk-in to the CIC Hut, and with clear blue skies, things were looking excellent!

Mike heading up the second pitch

Spindrift coming down the second pitch

On route, we followed a French team, and Richard Bentley with his client, but despite there being three teams, we rarely had to wait long.  With clear skies, amazing views, little wind and great climbing, the waiting really wasn't an issue either.  The crux, the traverse on pitch five, was a bit thin today and not particularly well protected, but the climbing at that point is never too hard, and once the traverse was over, there was ample opportunity to get an ice screw in.  We topped out to magnificent vistas in every direction, and could easily make out Skye, The Cairngorms, Schiehallion, Glencoe and Rhum.  There was a lot of spindrift pouring down Point 5 Gully when the winds picked up in the afternoon.  The descent from the Halfway Lochain to the North Face Car Park is hard going at the moment, with very deep snow in places.

The team walking over towards the summit of Ben Nevis this afternoon

All in all, a great couple of days, with two very different routes.  Other teams out on Hadrian's Wall Direct, Tower Ridge, Upper Tower Cascades, and again numerous teams heading up to Vanishing Gully.  One team backed away from Observatory Ridge, no doubt due to the amount of loose snow on it.  Unfortunately, an avalanche came down Garadh Gully and injured a French team in the vicinity.

The very white peak: North Ridge of Stob Ban

The final day of working for Hughes Mountaineering saw me heading into The Mamores, with Declan, Tom and Miriam to have a last mountaineering adventure with one real criteria for the day: to get back for the Ireland/Wales Six Nations rugby fixture at 5pm!  With snow forecasted and a shift in the wind direction, it made sense to stick to ridges, and with that in mind, opted to head up the North Ridge of Stob Ban.  Stob Ban translates as the white peak, and although the term refers to it's quartzite composition, it was certainly very white with the freshly deposited snow.

A snow covered North Ridge

The ridge has great character, rising at first quite sharply out of Glen Nevis, then easing off before tackling what at first seems to be an improbable buttress.  Once up close, the true nature of the difficulties become much clearer and easier than initial impressions might suggest.  A couple of rocky steps and some meandering lead to a spectacular snowy arete, leading the way towards the various false summits and finally the shattered quartzite peak of Stob Ban.  Windslab, which had been forming on the easterly facing slopes over the past couple of days, was also forming rapidly on the westerly facing slopes due to the new wind direction.  On the summit, we bumped into a team from the Ice Factor  who suggested that the trench they had created on their ascent (also our intended descent) would prove useful, however so much snow had fallen that their foot deep trench had already filled in.

Not a great photo but it shows the
amount of snow on the descent path

We were able to forge a path back down the mountain, through at times waist deep snow, trying to stick to the line of the path as closely as possible, which was very obscure at times.  We made it down for just gone 4pm, allowing enough times to make it back for the rugby, but  I bet they wished they hadn't have bothered given the final score!  A great and very different three days, all reflecting the diversity and challenges of Scottish winter mountaineering.

Wild Wild West: Gearr Aonach, Glencoe

Sheltered scrambling on the Zig Zags

If the winds in Glencoe had been anything close to those in Fort William during the early hours of today, I think today would have turned out quite different.  Instead, David, Jackie and I enjoyed a relatively pleasant day in Glencoe.  Today I was working for Hughes Mountaineering, along with Campbell, Andy and John.

As we pulled up in Glencoe, I don't think anyone anticipated on staying out as long as we eventually did, but soon after we had left that car, the weather cleared and even showed some blue skies!  The winds were still quite fresh, and with strong gusts forecasted, staying low was essential.  David and Jackie had quite a bit of experience both at home (Ireland) and abroad, and were keen to experience an adventurous walking day, but were fully aware that the weather could easily curtail plans.  Other members of their party were heading up to climb on Far Eastern Buttress on the East Face of Aonach Dubh, so I chose to head up the Zig Zags, onto Gearr Aonach then traverse into Coire Nan Lochan.  As we tucked ourselves behind the northern buttress of Gearr Aonach, the weather eased, and along with clear views, made for a very enjoyable ascent of the Zig Zags.  Crampons were definitely not required for the scramble, as most the ledges were just covered in soft, saturated graupel. Once on Gearr Aonach, we battled a few squalls, but again, in between the squalls, we had great views across to the Aonach Eagach and to the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan.  We could also make out the various teams climbing on Far Eastern Buttress.

After being battered by the wind a few times, we decided to traverse into Coire Nan Lochan and make our way down to the car.  Overall, it had been a great day and we'd lasted a good 7 hours.

Just before one of the squalls on Gearr Aonach

Seconds later!

Stob Coire nan Lochan, laden with snow

Far Eastern Buttress, Aonach Dubh

In the clouds: Green Gully, Ben Nevis

Tower Ridge and No. 2 Gully area this morning

A second day working for West Coast Mountain Guides, with Ashley and Dimitri, saw us back up Ben Nevis.  The freezing level had dropped though the night, and it felt markedly cooler this morning, even down at sea level.  It's the first time in a while that the freezing levels have really dropped, which was certainly long overdue.  Ashley and Dimitri found yesterday's climb adventurous, but quite straight forward, and so wanted something slightly more challenging today.  We headed back up to Coire Na Ciste, an hour ahead of yesterday, to find the mountain much quieter.  There were only 4 teams gearing up beneath Trident Buttresses, two of whom were heading up to Glover's Chimney, one to have a look at Thompson's Route and one to head up Number 3 Gully Buttress.  The Cascade up by No. 2 Gully is looking good, as is quite a bit of the ice in that area. Green Gully did have a team on it already, they must have had an early start as they were at least half way up the route at 9am.

Dimitri and Ashley at a belay

Most of the climbing in Green Gully at the moment is at grade III, with a couple of steps of IV, and the snow and ice was in great condition, particularly on the crux pitch and on the direct finish.  Both Ashley and Dimitri were suitably challenged today, and did well for their third Scottish winter climb.  On topping out, we were greeted by fresh winds building rime on the exposed rock, which is certainly very promising.  The snow had really firmed up down to about 800m, and with winter looking to return with a vengeance this week, climbing conditions will improve in the long term.

Descending the Red Burn in the clouds.

Busy on the Ben: Number 3 Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

Following some quiet days on Ben Nevis, today was a stark contrast!  Understandably, as it is one of the few mountains still managing to hang onto it's winter coat.  There was a very steady stream flowing up hill alongside the Allt a'Mhuilinn today, comprising of teams of climbers, all with similar objectives in mind.  I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides today and was out with Ashley and Dimitri.  They had both climbed Tower Ridge a couple of weeks ago, and had found it to be at the edge of their comfort zones, so were looking to climb something of similar technical difficulty but perhaps without the length of Tower Ridge.

Ashley and Dimitri on the first belay

The gearing up spot in Coire na Ciste, beneath the Trident Buttresses resembled something from a school playground, with numerous climbing 'gangs' in varying stages of readiness.  Whilst gearing up, I noticed that Number 3 Gully Buttress had a team leaving the first pitch and with no one else heading that way, decided to go for it.  Fortunate really as it had been my number one choice from the outset.  Conditions on the route were overall very good.  The snow was firm enough, and the ice was, for the majority of the route, in good shape.  I was keen not to simply 'guide' Ashley and Dimitri, so we looked at belays, tactics, leader placed protection, protecting traverses and in-situ gear amongst much else.  The ice higher up on the route was quite thin, and care was needed not to destroy the remaining patches!

Views across Coire na Ciste

A thin, but climbable Two Step Corner

A thin, and climbed Quickstep

We pretty much had the route to ourselves, as we never really did catch up to the team ahead. Another great day to be out.   Both 'Quickstep V,5' and 'Two Step Corner V,5' were complete, just, and there was a brave team on Quickstep, but I didn't quite see them negotiate a pencil of ice barely the width of my waist!  Other teams on Green Gully, The White Line, Banshee, Central Gully & RH of Creag Coire Na Ciste, Central Gully of The Trident Buttresses, Comb Gully amongst many others and reports of numerous teams on Point 5 Gully.  Freezing levels didn't really drop through the night as forecasted.